Beauty Amid Adversity

Fifteen monasteries into our sixteen monastery marathon and I had been struck down by some bug that had me unable to get out of bed and barely able to keep water down.

We were parked outside the peaceful Grgeteg monastery and all I did for about 36 hours was sleep. But by 6am the next morning I realised I wasn’t feel sick when I rolled over in bed and by 9am I was up, dressed and tentatively eating a banana.

Training was out of the question but we decided to venture out and explore the monastery just to see whether I could manage it

Facade of a historic building with ornate architectural details, featuring an arched entrance, decorative windows, and flags. Benches are positioned on either side of the entrance, with greenery and remnants of snow in the foreground.
Interior view of an ornate church featuring intricate frescoes and religious icons on the walls, a large chandelier in the centre, and an altar area with candles and decorative elements.

All went well and it seemed that our travels were back on track with only a minor hold-up. We were both very pleased to be out of the truck again.

We drove 20 minutes down the road to the pretty town of Sremski Karlovci, known for its beautiful buildings. It is also in the heart of one of the main wine-making areas of Serbia.

We had booked a wine and honey tasting tour but postponed it when I got ill so today we just planned to amble around

A historic building with yellow and orange striped exterior, viewed from the street, surrounded by bare trees and a metal fence.
Front view of an ornate pink historical building with large windows and a decorative roof, flanked by tall trees.

There were indeed plenty of lovely buildings, including the church

Front view of a grand white church with two tall spires, featuring a clock and decorative architecture, surrounded by leafless trees.
Intricately carved wooden door adorned with white flowers and greenery, beneath a decorative awning featuring an angel figure.
A large, bare tree with white bark towers over a small white church with a bell tower, set against a cloudy sky.

And the Karlovci grammar school, the first grammar school in Serbia, founded in 1791

A historic building with a yellow and red façade, featuring arched windows and a clock tower, surrounded by bare trees.
The entrance hall featuring ornate architecture, two statues on either side, and a decorated Christmas tree.

After wandering around for a while we found ourselves standing in a wine shop

Interior of a rustic wine cellar featuring wooden beams, brick walls, a bar area with wine bottles, and boxes stacked in the background.

Having not eaten for nearly 48 hours, and still feeling rather delicate, I managed only a tiny sip of a white wine and it tasted of chemicals – whereas James managed to try two or three and declared them all excellent.

I was feeling very light-headed by now so we bought a red and a white then headed to a restaurant that had been highly recommended so that I could refuel.

I was very sensible and had pumpkin soup followed by tuna salad. The restaurant was very good but the fact that this seemed like the best meal I had ever eaten probably said more about how hungry I was!

There wasn’t a great deal more to do in the town

A historic building with a weathered facade, featuring peeling paint and decorative elements above the windows, located on a street with a cobbled pavement.
A large, leafless tree with a thick trunk and sprawling branches in front of a church tower, set against a cloudy sky.

So we set off for Novi Sad – the second largest city in Serbia and the administrative capital of the Autonomous Province of Vojvodina which spreads from the northern border with Hungary down to Belgrade.

The history of Serbia is a complex and fascinating roller-coaster ride of power and prestige gained and lost over the centuries. Vojvodina itself retains its own character and history dating back to the 17th century when a large number of Serbs migrated out of Ottoman-controlled Serbia into what was then a region within Hungary. Only much later did that region become part of independent Serbia.

Novi Sad today is a large and busy city with a small but beautiful centre. We intended to visit the centre later but had only come today to do a few chores. We headed straight for Wurth, a high-end automotive tools supplier. There were a few things we needed to buy but they didn’t stock them. We chatted happily with the manager for a while and he recommended a few other places we could try – which, I have to admit, was what we really went in there for!

After dropping our laundry off at a laundrette we drove to a car park near the Petrovaradin fortress on the eastern edge of the city and settled in for the night.

I couldn’t believe my eyes the next morning when I checked the thermostat and found it was 7 degrees outside – some warmth at last! Were we finally turning a corner out of the arctic winter?

We opened up all the doors and windows to give BigMog a much needed airing. James even unzipped the cover of his e-bike to try and dry everything out – it felt good

A rear view of a camper van with bikes partially covered by a grey protective cover, showing the branding 'The Sidetracked Sagas' on the back. The setting includes a gravel area with grass and a road in the background under a clear blue sky.

After collecting our laundry we headed for the Museum of Beekeeping and Winery back in Stremski Karlovci where we had rebooked our honey and wine tasting tour

A sunny outdoor area showing a pathway bordered by wooden fencing, trees, and a house. The house features a stone path and a rainwater gutter, with a barrel resting on the ground.

We started in the museum learning all about bees

Illustration of different types of bees, including drone, queen, and worker bee, with detailed anatomical labels in German.

As well as the history of the family, who had run an established winery before branching out into honey

A museum interior displaying various historical artifacts, including a small model of a church, beehive replicas in glass cases, photographs on the walls, and trophies on display.
A collection of framed certificates and diplomas displayed on a wall, showcasing various achievements and recognitions.
A collection of vintage black and white photographs in gold and black frames displayed on a wall, featuring various historical scenes and portraits.
A small round table covered with a lace doily, displaying a bottle of Bermet, several framed diplomas and awards, and black-and-white historical photographs, with a window and decorative items in the background.

We then did a quick tour of the old cellars

Interior view of a wine cellar with rows of wooden barrels along the brick floor, dimly lit with a warm glow and brick archway ceiling.
An interior view of a dimly lit wine cellar featuring two large wooden barrels and several smaller glass bottles, all resting on a brick floor.

Before heading for the tasting room to try six wines and 3 different honeys

An empty dining area with long wooden tables and benches, featuring red cushioned seats and checkered table mats, under bright overhead lighting.

All served with bread, cheese and olives

A wooden tray with several clay pots containing sauces, alongside glasses filled with red straws, placed on a checkered tablecloth. A small wooden plate holds pieces of bread and cheese.

It was a lovely experience and we bought another four bottles of wine along with a jar of honey and a bottle of honey Rakija

A collection of six different bottles of wine and a jar of honey on a kitchen countertop. The wines include red and white varieties with labels in various languages, along with a distinctive jar of honey.

We walked across town to another highly-recommended restaurant, this one overlooking the Danube

A charming restaurant view featuring large glass windows, surrounded by greenery and a serene garden with ornamental plants and a small pond.
A tranquil river scene with a cloudy sky, featuring a wooden boardwalk in the foreground, a bare tree, and small boats moored at a dock.
A pathway decorated with festive ornaments and green foliage, flanked by wooden support beams and a large tree, leading into a tranquil outdoor space.

I got over excited and ordered pork followed by poppy seed cake – I had eaten so little over the last few days I really needed a substantial meal.

The food and the restaurant were both wonderful and on any other day all would have been well. But it was less than two days since I had been ill and I had been over optimistic.

I left the restaurant feeling awful. It got worse and worse until by 1am I was throwing up in a bowl and walking to the far end of the car park in my nightdress to dispose of it. The joys of not having a flushing toilet in your overland truck.

It was freezing cold again the next morning with low mists and rain. Between that and my horrible night, we were both feeling a bit down.

We drove back into Novi Sad and parked up in the fortress car park again. The plan had been to visit the fortress and then go to the old town but the weather was making it all seem very difficult.

We walked up to the fortress itself, suffering intensely with the bitter cold and lack of sleep.

There wasn’t much to do up there and the views were almost entirely obscured

A panoramic view of a cityscape featuring buildings with red roofs under a cloudy sky, with a river and a bridge visible in the background.

We found the clock tower

A tall clock tower with a black clock face and Roman numerals, topped with a weather vane, set against a grey, foggy sky.

But the museum was closed

A historical building with a yellow exterior and a red-tiled roof, featuring multiple dormer windows. The structure is surrounded by bare trees and shrubs, under a cloudy sky.

As was everything else

Side view of a yellow building with peeling paint and several windows, featuring lampposts and trees along the pathway.

Although we did manage to get a good view over the ramparts

A scenic view of ancient fortification ruins covered in grass, surrounded by barren trees and a cloudy sky.
A view of an old fortified structure with a grassy area and a stone pathway, featuring a bridge leading to an archway. The background includes more buildings and a modern bridge under a cloudy sky.
Silhouette of two bronze deer sculptures on a grassy slope, with a bare tree in the background under a cloudy sky.

Instead of carrying on into town, we found ourselves walking rather miserably back to the truck. We had no heart for exploring in this weather and my feet felt like lead.

We sat in the cab wondering what to do. We looked at our itinerary and decided to head to the small town of Bac where there was another fortress and a monastery. It seemed less daunting than trying to navigate a large city.

It was an easy, hour and a half’s drive to Bac and the fortress was wonderful

A red all-terrain vehicle parked near crumbling brick ruins of a castle, with a tower in the background and two painted figures standing on a grassy hillside.
Ruins of an ancient stone wall and towers, set against a cloudy sky with grass in the foreground.
View through a brick archway revealing a medieval tower and grassy courtyard.

We wandered around for about an hour

Ruins of an ancient brick structure partially covered in greenery, with a cloudy sky above.
Ruins of a brick castle with crumbling walls and overgrown grass under a cloudy sky.
A historic castle ruin featuring a partially intact tower and crumbling walls, set against a cloudy sky.

And even found some interesting locals

Two large straw figures dressed in clothes, resembling a man and a woman, stand in front of a ruined brick wall under a cloudy sky.

The clouds were still low but it seemed a little warmer here

View from a stone archway revealing ruins and a grassy area with parked vehicles and houses in the background.
A historical stone castle featuring a tall, square tower and a ruined structure, set against a cloudy sky with surrounding bare trees.

We found the remains of a Turkish Hamam nearby, apparently built in 1529 and the only surviving Islamic building in Vojvodina

A decaying brick structure with walls showing signs of age and erosion, accompanied by a gnarled, weeping tree with bare branches in front of it, set against a grey sky.

And the local church was nice

A view of a historic building with a bell tower, surrounded by trees and a clear blue sky.
A side view of an old church building with a bell tower and an adjacent historical structure, set against a cloudy sky.

But there wasn’t a lot else to do in the town so we drove down the road to see the Bodjani Monastery – because we hadn’t seen enough monasteries for a day or two!

A historic building featuring a pink and white façade with arched windows and a prominent tower topped with a cross, set against a cloudy sky.
A historic church building with a bell tower, partially obscured by bare tree branches, on a cloudy day.
View of a historic building with arched windows and a red-tiled roof, surrounded by grassy areas and bare trees.
Interior view of a church dome featuring intricate frescoes depicting biblical scenes and figures, with a central image of Christ surrounded by saints and various religious motifs.
Interior view of an ornate church featuring a decorative chandelier, elaborate frescoes on the ceiling and walls, and a wooden altar adorned with religious icons.
Interior view of a historic church featuring a ceiling adorned with intricate frescoes depicting religious figures, saints, and scenes from the Bible, illuminated by a central chandelier.

There had been a small car park near the fortress which looked like a good option for an overnight stay and as it was getting late we headed back to it

A red Mercedes truck with an attached caravan, parked in a scenic area with a stone structure and bridge in the background. The scene features clear skies and a grassy landscape.

When two cars pulled up at 10pm and music, laughter and shouting started we rolled our eyes and expected a difficult night ahead. But half an hour later they were gone. Two other cars pulled up over the next hour but again they only stayed a short time and caused us no problems. By 11pm all was quiet and we slept soundly.

Before we started back for Novi Sad, James wanted to check the rear brakes as it seemed that cleaning all the muck and grit out of them a week ago had not fixed the overheating problem. He was concerned that the second brake caliper we had had rebuilt in the UK was also failing.

With the wheel off, I sat in the drivers seat pressing the brake pedal whilst he watched what was going on. All of a sudden there was a bang as one of the brake lines burst and fluid poured out everywhere.

This was a whole new problem – the steel brake line was very badly corroded and had developed a large hole so could no longer hold the high pressure fluid that makes the brake system work

A close-up of a dirty work surface with a black metal rod, a pair of gloves, a measuring tape, and two tools resting on a crumpled cloth, all placed on a large, textured tyre.
A close-up of a worn and slightly corroded black cable resting on a textured, dirty cloth.

We were stranded with no brakes in a small town an hour and a half from help

Close-up view of a vehicle's suspension and axle assembly, showing detailed components such as the shock absorber, springs, and connecting rods.

Looking on the bright side, the fact that this had happened whilst we were stationary and just testing the brakes was pure coincidence and saved us from a far worse fate had it happened whilst we were driving.

James was fairly confident that if we removed the damaged brake line then we could limp back to Novi Sad on the three remaining brakes and hopefully get a new one made. But first we would need to source a proper fitting to cap off the removed line and seal the remaining system, otherwise we would have no brakes at all.

It was early on a Saturday morning with everywhere closed until Monday. We were going nowhere for a while

A scenic view of a bridge arching over a river, with a stone structure on the riverbank and trees in the background under a cloudy sky.

James spent the rest of the day cleaning everything up and assessing the problem

Close-up view of a dirty mechanical component with pipes and fittings, showing signs of oil and grime buildup.
Close-up of a rusty vehicle component showing corrosion and grime, with visible bolts and pipes.
An assortment of tools including wrenches, sockets, a screwdriver, a drill, and various nuts and washers, arranged on a grassy surface beside a curb.

Whilst I searched for a garage within walking distance and tried to find someone in Novi Sad who could make a brake line.

We became a bit of a hit with the locals, many of whom came over to say hello and find out what we were up to.

Sunday was not so productive, we both sat in the truck all day doing admin, reading and getting very frustrated. Between this and my sickness we seemed to have done very little all week.

But two things did happen to make the day a little better than it could have been.

Firstly, as part of my training each morning I lie on my mat doing stretches and a few times I have had locals walking past looking at me a little worried as though they think I might have collapsed.

On this Sunday morning it went a little further. I was lying there stretching when I heard a car pull up. A man jumped out, ran towards me with a panicked look on his face and bent down over me. I sat up and said good morning at which he jumped back and looked confused. He didn’t speak much English but when I smiled and said I was fine he looked relieved but also a little embarrassed. He shook my hand and kept saying sorry but I thanked him for caring and coming to my help. Whether he understood the words or not, I believe he understood the sentiment. He smiled, nodded and went away leaving me with a strong feeling that the people of Serbia have much of the same sense of community and kindness that we so valued in Africa.

The second thing that happened was that a young teenager came over to present us with a wonderful drawing that he had done from the bridge

A hand-drawn sketch of a truck with a boxy cargo section, depicted on a piece of torn paper. The truck, displaying details like wheels and windows, is parked on a road with sparse trees in the background. The drawing is dated December 2026.

He was fascinated by the truck and our travels and I think he has a bright future ahead of him.

Monday morning finally arrived and we headed out on foot towards two or three places we had located which we hoped might sell us something to cap off the brake line.

It was going to be a long walk but the weather had warmed up a little so we were in good spirits. We had only been walking for around 15 minutes when we passed a few tractors parked outside one of the houses and saw that it was an agricultural repair place

A rural scene featuring two tractors parked next to each other on a grassy area, with a modest house and power lines in the background under a partly cloudy sky.

Tractors and UniMogs are distant cousins so we went in to see them.

The owner and his son, Adam, had admired the truck in the car park over the week-end and soon as they understood our problem they were pleased to help.

It took them less than half an hour to make two caps and an emergency brake line and they wouldn’t accept any money for them

A close-up of a hand wearing a black glove, holding a metal bolt with thread and a copper washer, set against a background of tools and a tyre.
An off-road vehicle with one wheel removed, parked beside a river. Tools and equipment are scattered on the ground, and a folding step ladder is visible.

It then took six hours and another two trips back to them for more help but finally, by 3pm, we had a sealed brake system and the wheel was back on. We packed everything up, jumped into the cab and tentatively tested the remaining brakes. It was all looking good. We drove to the small supermarket in the town and bought Adam and his Dad two bottles of wine and then set off towards the city.

Five minutes into the journey we were on a long, straight road so James decided to test the brakes in earnest. He stamped on the brake pedal hard, BigMog lurched to the side that had two brakes instead of one but otherwise all was good.

We arrived back at the fortress car park all in one piece, relieved but exhausted.

It was minus 3 the next morning but we had other things on our mind. We drove straight to a fabricator recommended by our Wurth friend. He had the most fantastic workshop

Two men in a workshop surrounded by various tools and machinery, one wearing an orange jacket and the other in a black coat, engaged in conversation.
An industrial workshop filled with green machinery, including lathes and milling machines. The area is cluttered with tools and equipment, with toolboxes and parts scattered across the floor.

But could only make a brake line out of copper and we needed steel.

So we drove across town to another place where they took one look at the old brake line, nodded and had a new one made within 10 minutes

A worker in a workshop, focused on a task at a blue workbench, surrounded by tools and equipment.

We spent the rest of the day driving around the city visiting endless tools, autoparts and hardware stores trying to gather all the things we would need – and not just to fit the new brake line, there is always an endless to-do list when you own a UniMog

A red Mercedes truck with an attached white camper unit featuring a lion design, parked on grass near buildings and flag poles.

And that fact was becoming a bit of a problem. It had started to feel as though our lives were dominated by BigMog and his problems. We were spending all our time in garages and tool shops and James was spending most of his life under the truck.

So the next day we decided to have a day off and actually do some sightseeing.

We walked across the bridge over the Danube and finally made it into Novi Sad old town

A historic street lined with charming, pastel-coloured buildings, featuring shops and cafés, with people walking along a cobblestone pathway under a blue sky.
A weathered tank with graffiti, located in a park setting, surrounded by bare trees and a pathway. In the background, residential buildings and military equipment are visible.
A serene park scene featuring a pond surrounded by a white fence, with bare trees in the foreground and a grassy area in the background under a cloudy sky.

Our first stop was the Contemporary Arts Museum. Some of it was great

Silhouettes of figures behind a textured screen, with greenery visible in the background, projected onto a dark wall.

Some of it less so

A wireframe sculpture resembling a house, located in an art gallery. The structure features vertical and horizontal lines, creating a geometric appearance with shadows cast on the wall.

And at times it was hard to know what was ‘installation art’ and what was someone’s lunch break!

An art installation featuring two black folding chairs and a wooden table, with a small decorative item on one chair, a pair of work boots and a bone on the floor, and several boxes scattered nearby.

From there we went to the Vojvodina Museum where there was an interesting exhibition about the history of the fire brigade along with a large exhibition on the history of the region

A vintage horse-drawn carriage displayed in a museum, featuring a black canopy and ornate gold detailing on its wooden body, with red wheels and a distinctive emblem.

By far the most interesting exhibits were the three Roman helmets – two of which had been unearthed in 1955 and the third in 2006

A golden ancient helmet displayed on a stand against a dark background, showcasing intricate designs and detailing.
Ancient golden helmet displayed in a glass case, featuring intricate designs and metal embellishments.
A golden ancient helmet displayed in a museum, intricately decorated with jewels and patterns, resting on a dark fabric background.

They were in amazing condition given they were 2,000 years old.

After spending all morning doing museums and galleries we treated ourselves to lunch at an all too rare Chinese restaurant and were high on MSG for the rest of the day.

To work it off we went to see the first of many very impressive synagogues spread across Serbia

Side view of a historical brick building with arched windows and domed rooftops, against a cloudy sky.

The Novi Sad synagogue was built in 1909. It’s absolutely huge and very impressive both inside and out

Interior panoramic view of a grand hall with high, ornate ceilings, decorative mouldings, and stained glass windows, featuring chandeliers and a balcony.
Interior view of a decorated church featuring a high ceiling with intricate designs, an organ at the altar, and rows of wooden pews.
View of a decorative domed ceiling featuring intricate white moulding and a central stained glass window.

The sign on the door said to find the security guard for access inside but we weren’t convinced that the 200 dinars he wanted for opening up was official!

A close-up view of an ornate brick building with large windows and a prominent dome, surrounded by bare trees and a cloudy sky.

The synagogue was used in the 1940s to hold people before they were shipped off to concentration camps. It is now used as a venue for concerts and cultural events.

The centrepeice of the old town is Freedom Square and this is where most of the beautiful old buildings can be found

View of a historic square with ornate buildings, including a tall clock tower and decorative architecture, under a cloudy sky.
A city square featuring historical buildings with ornate architecture, a statue in the centre, and lampposts, under a cloudy sky.

Including the Hotel Vojvodina

Facade of Hotel Vojvodina with a decorative balcony and storefronts below, located in a historic building.

And Dunderski Palace now turned into an unusual H&M store

Facade of a historic building featuring elaborate architectural details, with an H&M entrance and a sign for a jewellery shop.
Decorative ceiling featuring a painted scene of figures, surrounded by intricate patterns and gold detailing, viewed from below.
An ornate staircase with intricate wrought iron railings, leading to an upper level in a beautifully designed building featuring patterned ceilings and large windows.
A decorative oval mirror reflecting a well-lit shop interior featuring clothing racks and stylish pendant lights.

We also found the Church of the Name of Mary

A tall church with a prominent spire and clock tower, located in an urban square with historic buildings surrounding it, under a cloudy sky.
Interior view of a church featuring tall columns, ornate altar, and stained glass windows.

City Hall

A statue of a prominent figure stands in front of an ornate historical building, with cloudy skies overhead.

The Bishops Palace

A large historic building with ornate yellow-orange façade and intricate architectural details, featuring multiple windows and a decorative roof, surrounded by a wrought iron fence and manicured greenery.

And St George’s Church

Side view of a historical building featuring a tall clock tower, ornate architecture, and a cloudy sky in the background.

Along with a host of other, unnamed buildings

An outdoor cafe with numerous empty tables and chairs, shaded by large umbrellas, set in a European-style square with pastel-coloured buildings in the background.
A street view of colourful historic buildings, featuring a yellow facade and a statue of a man in the foreground. Outdoor seating with tables and an umbrella is visible in front of a restaurant.
A historical building with a dome, featuring ornate architectural details and covered scaffolding, displaying a sign with the word 'zeppier'.

As we walked back over the bridge we had a lovely view of the Petrovaradin Fortress

View of a historic fortress situated on a hill, with buildings and churches at the base, beside a river under a cloudy sky.

But a bitter wind was blowing across the river so we didn’t hang about to admire it for too long.

As we settled back into BigMog a group of young boys crowded around the truck, taking photos and talking excitedly before finally getting up the courage to knock on the door. When James answered, an amused smile on his face, they asked whether he could start the engine for them. As BigMog roared into life their eyes were wide and they gasped in awe.

Our site-seeing over, we spent the next day in the car park whilst James removed the brake line on the other side to check its condition. It was fine and that gave us back some of the confidence we were beginning to lose in BigMog.

James carried out a few other bits of work on his ever-extending list of things to do

Close-up view of a vehicle's suspension system, showing a coiled rubber spring and a worn rubber boot over a metal rod, with dirt and grime visible.

But we decided not to put the new brake line on until we could find someone to look at the brake caliper – all the trouble over the last few days had merely delayed our investigations into that problem, it still needed addressing

Close-up view of a car brake caliper and disc, showing wear and dirt on the components.
A disassembled brake caliper resting on a pink cloth, displayed on a gravel surface.

We decided to drive up to a garage which Google said specialised in Mercedes. We doubted they would deal with truck calipers but hoped they might know someone who did.

When we arrived we found that they weren’t actually Mercedes specialists but they were very helpful. They loved BigMog and we discovered a few days later that they had taken a video of him sitting on their forecourt and posted it on their Instagram page!

They rang round a few places for us and eventually made an appointment with the main Mercedes truck dealer across town for 8am the next morning.

When we arrived at Mercedes for the appointment we thought we were at wrong place as it didn’t look like an official dealer at all, in fact it looked rather abandoned. But eventually the service manager came out of a portacabin and seemed to be expecting us.

He called over their head mechanic who he said was fluent in English, experienced with UniMogs and would be leading the work. The mechanic introduced himself and we broke into huge smiles – he was South African.

It was like meeting an old friend, his Afrikaans accent brought back a flood of emotions and memories and we chatted for a while about South Africa, Namibia and why on earth he was here and not there.

With our bonding fully complete, he set to work on the caliper. He expertly took it all apart and found that the cover had not been put on properly so all the muck, grit and water from the winter roads had got inside, wearing the bearings and o-rings. The whole thing was a mess

Three mechanics examining and repairing machinery in a garage, with a large truck partially visible in the background.
Two mechanics working together on a vehicle part in a workshop, using tools at a cluttered workbench.
Two mechanics discussing tools and repairs in a workshop, with a black truck in the background.

He cleaned it out thoroughly and in an amazing stroke of luck, the seal pack we had bought in the UK for the repair of the first caliper had included more seals than we required and the ones that were left were exactly the ones we needed to replace in this caliper. When does that ever happen?

An industrial workbench cluttered with various metal parts and tools, featuring a close-up of a component with multiple holes and a rotating mechanism, alongside a can of cleaner and a blue cloth.

More of a concern were the bearings as those were specialist items. But we were on a roll – they rang round their suppliers and found just what we needed. The manager went off to collect them and appeared an hour later with bearings, grease and a big smile

A close-up of a hand holding a metallic component with two circular bearing races, placed on a workbench covered with tools.

Everything was put back together and the caliper was now working as good as new. Except that it wasn’t really as good as new, the dirt that had worked its way inside had pitted the parking brake shaft so the caliper’s lifespan would be limited. Everyone was confident, however, that it would easily last until our next trip to the UK where we could pick up new parts.

Whilst the guys worked on the repair I sat in the portacabin and chatted to the manager about the structure of languages which was a fascinating conversation. As we talked his broken English became increasingly fluent and he explained that he used to speak English well but had got out of practice. He said he was pleased to have the opportunity of practising on me and gave us a sizeable discount on our bill as he wanted to make sure that visitors to his country were happy.

We were – very happy and very relieved.

We were even happier that afternoon as we drove out of the city and back into the countryside, heading for the famous and rustic restaurant at Salas 137, frequented by such people as Demi Moore, Nigel Kennedy and Tony Parkinson, amongst others

A large overland vehicle parked in front of a traditional building with a sloped roof, featuring solar panels. The vehicle has a unique design, and there are trees and a sign visible nearby.
A quiet farmyard scene featuring bare trees and a gravel pathway leading to white buildings under a cloudy sky.

Whilst we were filling up our water tanks from their outside tap, the owner’s daughter came over to chat. She had a huge knowledge of history and politics and I got a good lesson in how the Serbian people view their country and those who govern them (very positive for one, not so much for the other).

A local couple came up to admire the truck and told us a bit about the history of the owner and the equestrian centre where the restaurant was based. They recommended what food to try and later on introduced us to the owner himself who was another fascinating person to talk to with a life story that leaves you speechless.

And the food was amazing as well!

Exterior view of a charming restaurant at night, featuring wooden doors, blue and white walls, and decorative plates. Tables and chairs are set outside under soft lighting.
A dimly lit outdoor space at night, featuring bare trees decorated with string lights, creating a warm, inviting atmosphere. The cobblestone pathway leads through the area, with rustic benches and a few scattered objects, set against a backdrop of buildings.

The food was so good in fact that we had breakfast there the next morning

Interior of a quaint restaurant featuring two wooden tables with checkered tablecloths, decorated walls with framed paintings, and a window with white curtains.

Before heading off to see Fantast Castle, otherwise known as Dunderski Palace

A large white castle with a red roof, featuring two towers, surrounded by green grass and trees, under a cloudy sky.

It was built in 1919 by a wealthy landowner who wanted to create a lavish castle to prove the rumours of his bankruptcy false

A white castle-like building with grey and pointed towers, surrounded by trees and overgrown vegetation in a grassy area.
An overgrown stone platform surrounded by trees, with a stone structure in the centre and a vast expanse of grass and bare ground.
A sculpture of a figure riding a horse, set in a grassy area with trees and a historic structure in the background.

It originally had a luxurious interior but was heavily bombed in world war two and then nationalised – most of the furniture and art were stolen or removed

A large, historic mansion with a tower, surrounded by trees and a stone wall, under a cloudy sky.
A historic castle or manor set against a cloudy sky, partially obscured by trees and surrounded by a decorative wall.

It fell into disrepair before being opened as a hotel in 1983

Sign for Dvorac Fantast, featuring a castle graphic on a metallic plaque.

Today it is abandoned again so you can’t get inside either the main building or the mausoleum

A side view of a yellow church with a rounded dome, featuring decorative elements and an archway with columns.
An ornate, weathered stone archway with a wrought iron gate, set against a background of trees and a grassy area.

But we enjoyed poking around, it is a very beautiful building

A view of a tall, historic castle surrounded by trees, featuring a staircase leading to its entrance, under a cloudy sky.

There is little information available on why it closed or what’s going to happen to it, just some vague references to mismanagement and ‘complex’ legal issues. It seems such a shame.

We were still heading north, aiming for the town of Subotica on the border with Hungary. The roads were fabulous – quiet, smooth and wide. Rolling farmland was drifting past on each side and the sun was out

A rural scene featuring a gravel road lined with bare trees, with a field in the background and a red vehicle's side mirror in the foreground under a cloudy sky.

We arrived early in the afternoon and parked up by a large supermarket but it was a 3km walk into the town so we decided to leave it until the next day.

Subotica is renowned for being crammed full of beautiful, Art Nouveau buildings and the 3km walk was well worth the effort

A historic yellow building with ornate architectural details and large windows, set against a partly cloudy sky. The front of the building features trees with bare branches and street lamps.
Ornately designed yellow and green building with sculptural elements, featuring large windows and intricate architectural details under a cloudy sky.
A historic building with a rounded corner, featuring a decorative facade and a pointed rooftop, illuminated against a clear blue sky. The ground floor displays a sign that reads 'Teatro'.
Historic yellow building with ornate architectural details and arched windows, featuring a lamp post in front against a clear blue sky.
Historic building with a clock tower, partially obscured by bare tree branches, under a blue sky.
A scenic view of a white architectural building with curved elements, surrounded by bare trees and planters in a courtyard. The sky is clear and blue, enhancing the tranquil atmosphere.

Street art seems to be a big part of Serbian culture and we found a lot of quirky sculptures dotted around

A bronze sculpture of a standing bear in an urban setting, positioned on a stone base, with a decorative wall and gate in the background.
Bronze statue of a musician playing a saxophone, set in a garden with ornamental plants and brick pathways.
A bronze sculpture of a worker in a hard hat emerging from the ground, holding tools, situated on a brick pavement.

We wandered about all morning searching out the city hall

A historic building with a tall spire, featuring red and grey façades, and intricate architectural details, set against a clear blue sky.
Historic building featuring a tall clock tower and ornate façade, surrounded by bare trees and a clear blue sky.

Raichle Palace

Ornate architectural building featuring colourful tiles, decorative elements, and intricate details against a clear blue sky.

And the Subotica Synagogue

A side view of a grand building featuring intricate architectural details, domes, and large arched windows, set against a clear blue sky.

This was the second of the impressive synagogues we were to see and is still a functioning place of worship

Historic building with ornate architecture, surrounded by leafless trees against a clear blue sky.

The interior was luxurious

Interior view of a beautifully decorated synagogue featuring ornate ceilings, chandeliers, and rows of seating.
Interior view of a beautifully decorated synagogue, showcasing a grand bimah with ornate features, a large organ, and two elegant candelabras with lit candles.
View of an ornate octagonal dome featuring intricate floral designs and stained glass windows, illuminated by a central light fixture.
Front view of a decorative building with domes, intricate brickwork, and a large arched window against a clear blue sky.

We had worked up an appetite with all the walking and found the Boss Café for lunch – another place famous for good food

Interior of a stylish bar featuring illuminated shelves displaying wine bottles and glasses, with decorative pendant lights and an elegant atmosphere.
Interior of a stylish bar featuring a glowing backlit counter, patrons seated on high stools, and various bottles displayed on shelves behind the bar. Warm lighting and decorative art create a welcoming atmosphere.

Our car park was not the most peaceful of places to stay so we walked back to the truck and drove a few miles out of town to the Subotica Lake.

It was cold and gloomy so we decided to leave our walk around the lake to the morning when we hoped the weather would be a bit more cheerful

A large, two-storey building with decorative peaks on the roof, surrounded by trees and hedges, in a foggy environment.

We were out of luck again – it was freezing cold and the mist was so dense we could hardly see the lake at all

A misty lakeside view with calm waters and a distant pier, surrounded by trees and a foggy atmosphere.

Undeterred, we bundled up and wandered around

A misty landscape featuring a boat docked near a ferry-style building by a calm lake, surrounded by bare trees and a cloudy sky.
A vintage-style riverboat with a white exterior and red accents, featuring multiple windows and a deck, moored at a dock in a foggy setting.
Large decorative sign featuring the text 'I love Palić' with floral designs, located by a pathway near a body of water, on a foggy day.
Two bronze statues of women in traditional clothing seated on a wooden bench in a park setting.

We suspected that Serbia is rather beautiful in the summer months and places like this no doubt attract a lot of local tourists.

We had been in the country for just over three weeks and it was growing on us in a big way. Despite the weather there seemed to be an endless variety of things to do here and everyone was incredibly kind and welcoming.

We were also starting to learn that Serbia is one of the safest countries you can visit. We were often told that petty crime is almost non-existent – the chances of having your pocket picked, your house burgled or your UniMog broken into are practically zero. Everyone said that we could park-up anywhere we like, or even sleep on a park bench, and no-one would bother us.

And our experience so far was testament to that – even when we found ourselves parked in a hot-spot for boy racers or drunken gatherings on a Friday night, it was all very good natured and we always felt very safe.

We were loving the beautiful scenery, the fabulous architecture and the warm welcome. We wanted to immerse ourselves in this wonderful country and start getting to know it properly, get out into the further reaches and do more of the exciting things on our itinerary.

If only BigMog would let us. So far he had not behaved himself for a single day since we left the UK and it was becoming a bind. We were beginning to despair and our nerves were constantly on edge waiting for the next problem. What would the next few weeks have in store? Would he ever stop throwing issues at us? Would we actually get to travel for more than a couple of days without having to find yet another UniMog hospital or park-up for days to fix things?

Well, it’s funny you should ask….

Jen Price

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