The First Buds of Hope

Subotica Lake was pretty enough but not exactly the wilderness and the weather was not on our side. So after a quick walk around we headed off to the village of Novo Milosevo where there was a tractor museum. It seemed unusual to have a museum dedicated to tractors so we had to go and investigate.

When we first arrived, it seemed to be exactly what you might expect – a load of old tractors in a yard

Entrance sign of the Žeravica Museum, featuring the museum's name in Cyrillic and a modern design.
A collection of vintage tractors parked in an outdoor area, featuring various models in differing states of restoration, with bare trees and a building in the background.
A large black statue of a muscular man holding a hammer, standing on a brick pedestal in front of a building with various tools and items at the sides.
An antique tracked tractor with a rusty red finish, parked next to a blue tractor, in front of large glass windows.

But we soon discovered that most of the exhibits were held inside a large building and it was very impressive

A wide view of an indoor museum showcasing various vintage machines and steam engines, with multiple levels of exhibits and displays surrounded by antique furniture.

We wandered around for hours

Historical agricultural machinery displayed in a museum, featuring various antique tractors and tools along with a spacious industrial setting.
A collection of vintage tractors displayed indoors, featuring a blue tractor at the forefront with large spoked wheels, and several other tractors in a row behind it, showcasing different colours and designs.
A row of vintage tractors displayed in a museum, showcasing various colours and designs against a backdrop of antique radios mounted on the wall.
A collection of vintage tractors and agricultural machinery inside a spacious warehouse with wooden beams and framed pictures on the walls.

It wasn’t just tractors, the museum contained all sorts of vehicles

A vintage steam engine displayed in a museum, featuring large red wheels, black machinery, and various components typical of early industrial technology.
Vintage maroon Audi car displayed in a museum, featuring a doll in the driver's seat and various old memorabilia in the background.
A row of vintage steam engines displayed in an industrial space, showcasing intricate machinery and wheels.

Including one of BigMog’s ancesters!

A vintage green military-style vehicle is parked inside a museum, surrounded by various old vehicles and memorabilia. The vehicle features a simple design with exposed wheels and equipment on the dashboard. A yellow hard hat and grey seat cushions are visible inside.

As well as thousands of other things like cameras, televisions, radios and pretty much any other machine you could think of

An antique wooden cart with glass panels on display in a museum filled with vintage items and machinery.
A collection of vintage televisions arranged on a wall, featuring various sizes and styles of screens with wooden frames.
A display of vintage cameras and audio equipment on shelves, featuring various models and accessories, with a camera on a tripod in the foreground.

Typical of Serbia, there were no staff and no entrance fee. Just a small box at the doorway with a note saying that donations would be very welcome.

From there we headed south to the Medieval Church of Araca – an ancient ruin literally in the middle of nowhere

Ruins of an ancient brick building set against a cloudy sky, surrounded by bare trees and green grass.

We had to drive 5km over farm tracks before we found it

A landscape view featuring bare trees on the left, a grassy field, and a blue sky with scattered clouds.

Farmers ploughed their fields around us but paid us no attention at all, apparently around here having a cathedral in the middle of your farm is business as usual

Ruined brick church with a tower, set against a cloudy sky.
Ruins of a brick building with an arched doorway and a tower, set against a blue sky with scattered clouds.

There was originally a village surrounding this church in the 13th century but even so, the scale of it was remarkable

Ruined brick structure with arched windows and a partially collapsed tower, set against a cloudy sky.
Ruins of a brick church or abbey against a cloudy sky, showcasing arched windows and structural remnants.
A wooden cross surrounded by carved wooden posts, decorated with ribbons and a floral wreath, set in a rural landscape with bare trees in the background.
Ruins of an ancient brick structure with arches and stone walls, set against a blue sky.
The ruins of an old brick structure featuring arches and a large circular window, set against a cloudy sky.

We were finally somewhere remote and peaceful, we breathed in the fresh air and could hear ourselves think in the peace and quiet with only birds to break the silence

A red and white expedition vehicle parked on a grassy hill, with a bare tree and a few leafless trees in the background under a partly cloudy sky.

In fact, it was so lovely that we decided to stay the night.

A red overland vehicle parked in an open field under a blue sky, with a few clouds and birds flying overhead. A single tree stands nearby, adding to the natural landscape.
A red off-road vehicle parked in a grassy area, with a partially ruined brick church and a cloudy sky in the background.

We had a wonderful afternoon and slept soundly, the only disappointment being the cold wind that prevented us from sitting outside

Ruined brick structure of a historical building with arched windows and a small tower, surrounded by trees and grass under a cloudy sky.

The winds got stronger overnight and by morning it was bitter. A farmer came by in his tractor, raised his hand in greeting and grinned at me as if I was a crazy woman doing my training out there.

Since heading north from Novi Sad the country had become far less industrialised but we were keen to get out even further. The eastern part of Serbia is the least developed, known as the ‘remote east’. This was where we wanted be – exploring wild and remote places well away from civilisation.

Our first stop enroute was the bizarre statue of Rocky Balboa in the small town of Zitiste

Statue of Rocky Balboa with arms raised in triumph, positioned on a stone pedestal engraved with 'ROCKY', set in a park with bare trees.

It seemed odd to have a Rocky statue here but apparently the message is that it doesn’t matter how many times you fall, the important thing is to get back up and keep fighting. Very relevant to Serbia’s history.

Sadly, the statue looked nothing like the character in the film!

We pressed on east to the town of Pancevo to seek out another museum that was close to James’ heart in particular – the ‘Old Timer Motors’ museum of motorbikes.

This museum was on a completely different scale to the Tractor Museum but no less interesting for that

A collection of vintage motorcycles displayed in a small museum setting. The image features several motorcycles of varying styles and ages, stacked on red shelving. Vintage posters are hung on the wall, and some old items like a radio and memorabilia are visible among the motorcycles.
A vintage yellow motorcycle displayed on a red stand, surrounded by other classic bikes and framed vintage motorcycle advertisements on the walls.
A collection of vintage motorcycles in an old garage, featuring two rusty bikes with battered frames and a variety of mechanical parts and tools scattered around.

It turned out to be in the owner’s house and our lovely hostess did her best in her broken English to tell us about each motorbike as we went around

A vintage motorcycle display in a museum with various models on shelves, including a classic motorcycle on the top shelf. Two visitors, one in an orange coat and another in a brown coat, observe the exhibits.
A cluttered workshop filled with vintage motorcycles and motorcycle parts displayed on shelves, showcasing various models and types in varying states of restoration.

And at the end of the tour they even had a Penny Farthing and some rather impressive cars

A vintage penny-farthing bicycle stands in the foreground, with a cream-coloured classic car and a blue car in the background, set in an indoor garage space.
A vintage 1929 black car with blue accents, displayed in a garage alongside other classic cars. The car features round headlights and flags mounted on the front.

It was the middle of the afternoon by now and the days were still short so we were keen to find somewhere to park up. We found a place by a marina half an hour away and hoped we could get BigMog through the trees surrounding it.

But when we arrived we realised that there was no way – the road was really just a footpath and the trees were too dense. We were lost for ideas for a moment until we spotted a large patch of dirt overlooking the water that seemed perfect for the night.

As we pulled in we were thrilled – it was lovely

A view of a tranquil river with several moored boats and a background of trees and houses on a hillside under a cloudy sky.
Scenic view of a river with moored boats and a bare tree on the bank, under a cloudy sky.
A red off-road vehicle with a camper body, featuring a lion's face illustration, parked near a lake with trees and boats in the background under a cloudy sky.

It was also getting increasingly cold and the next morning gave us beautiful blue skies but freezing temperatures so we didn’t hang around too long.

We were keen to be in the eastern region as soon as possible, craving the remoteness that we love.

We were heading for the Viminacium Roman ruins, on the eastern border of Serbia with Romania. From the maps, it had appeared to be surrounded by empty countryside but we were to be sorely disappointed.

As we drove further east, the landscape became more industrialised not less. We were driving through quarries with industrial plants everywhere and we were only 5km from the ruins when we found ourselves driving through a huge thermal power plant with smoke billowing out of its chimneys.

We pulled up in the car park of the archaeological site and looked back at it

Industrial power plant with two tall smokestacks emitting white smoke against a clear blue sky, featuring wind turbines in the background.

‘Remote east?’ James exclaimed a little despondently.

Nevertheless, the ruins themselves were very far from disappointing.

The Danube once formed the border between the Roman Empire and the Dacians and as such the Romans built the ‘Danubian Limes’, a frontier of heavy fortifications from Germany all the way to Romania. Viminacium was a major Roman city along this frontier and the excavated site so far covers over 1,000 acres.

We had been surprised to find that Serbia is actually crammed full of Roman ruins. This has added to my realisation that our knowledge and understanding of the world has always been limited to a very western-centric perspective. As we travel, it feels as though a veil is being lifted and a whole new world is coming into focus before my eyes.

These ruins, however, were clearly not open – the ticket office was boarded up and there was no-one around. But we were starting to get the gist of Serbia by now – in this accommodating country, if a site isn’t open that doesn’t mean you can’t go in, it just means you can’t pay the entrance fee.

Serbia seems to have a very different view of the world than we are used to. They appear to assume that everywhere is public property so they just leave the door open for you. Everywhere is available to everyone.

And so it was here. There were a number of different sites scattered around the huge complex, each one covered by a large tent and each tent had the doorway tied open so visitors could just go in and look around.

We started in the main area where we saw the ruins of the mausoleum

An archaeological site featuring ancient stone structures and tombs within a protective dome.
An archaeological site covered by a glass roof, featuring stone structures and ruins, with a central platform surrounded by walls and ancient artifacts.

Complete with skeletons

Three ancient burial sites with exposed skeleton remains, located in a sandy environment, surrounded by a wooden barrier.
Excavated skeleton remains in an archaeological site, showing bones and a skull, with stone structures in the background.

I found some underground tunnels and, once I had collected James to hold my hand and stop the walls closing in on me, we went inside.

Deep underneath the mausoleum we found a crypt with two remarkable frescoes – one known as the ‘Mona Lisa of Viminacium’ dating back to the 4th-century and renowned for its high-quality

Ancient mural of a woman with long hair and patterned clothing, partially obscured by wear and tear.
Ancient fresco depicting a male figure holding a shield, surrounded by fading colours and intricate patterns on a weathered wall.

We found a couple of other tents with less complete excavations inside

An archaeological excavation site showing exposed stone structures and layers of earth, covered by a wooden framework.

Along with some sarcophagi

An ancient stone sarcophagus with a partially opened lid, situated in a grassy area surrounded by trees.

And a strange, empty building with a roof made from a boat…

View of a wooden, curved ceiling structure supported by beams, with a rustic design featuring slanted wooden elements and a spacious interior.

But the next major find were the Roman baths

Interior view of an archaeological site under a protective structure, featuring stone walls, foundations, and scattered remnants of ancient structures.
An archaeological site featuring stone ruins of an ancient building, with visible outline of walls, bricks, and stone blocks, covered by a protective structure.

For some reason I find the ruins of Roman baths fascinating

An archaeological site featuring ancient stone foundations and walls, with a layout including a rectangular structure and various stacked stone blocks.
Excavated stone ruins of an ancient building featuring arched openings, housed under a large protective structure.
Excavated archaeological site featuring circular and rectangular stone structures under a protective canopy.

At the far end of the site was a reconstruction of an amphitheatre

A wooden fort with high walls and two towers under a clear blue sky.

We went for a look but it was getting too cold to want to climb up it, it wasn’t old after all

An ancient wooden fort with an arena, featuring stone ruins and a figure walking on grass, under a cloudy blue sky.

From there we headed for a completely different type of historical exploration – the cemetery at Kisiljevo. This is where Peter Blagojevic was buried in 1725. Who is Peter Blagojevic you may well ask and it is curious that no-one knows his name as he was officially the world’s first reported vampire!

A few days after Peter Blagojevic’s death, people in the village started dying in mysterious circumstances. Before they died, the victims all claimed that Peter Blagojevic had visited them and drunk their blood. The villagers exhumed his body to find it looking as fresh as the day he died and with blood in its mouth. They were terrified by the sight, staked him through the heart and burnt his body.

It was the earliest, most sensational and well documented case of vampire hysteria.

Unfortunately, no-one is sure exactly where his grave is but that didn’t matter. We wiled away an or hour or so wandering around the oldest part of the graveyard looking at the crumbling gravestones and trying to decide which one we thought was his

A weathered gravestone with a cross on top, surrounded by overgrown greenery and small trees.
An old, weathered stone standing amidst sparse vegetation and branches in a woodland area.

Who knows, not us, that’s for sure!

Graveyards can be a great source of the history and culture so we tend to visit quite a lot of them as we travel.

It is clear how important graveyards are to people in Serbia. They are often huge and always well taken care of – the amount of money and effort the families spend on the headstones is remarkable

A peaceful cemetery scene featuring several gravestones, some adorned with flowers, surrounded by trees under a partly cloudy sky.

These newer graves are typical of what we saw everywhere. Unusually, most are shared – with a single headstone for husband, wife and often children as well

A serene cemetery scene featuring various gravestones, including large black monuments, surrounded by bare trees and a blue sky with clouds.

Photographs of the deceased are beautifully etched into the tombstone but little else is said other than their dates.

And very often the portrait of a family member is already on the tombstone when they are still alive, their grave waiting for them. It sends a shiver up my spine whenever I see that.

We left the graveyard, still none the wiser as to where the vampire’s grave was, and drove to the Ram fortress

A view of a stone castle surrounded by bare trees and greenery under a blue sky.

We parked up in the fortress car park with a beautiful view over the Danube

A red off-road vehicle parked on a gravel area by a body of water, with a bright blue sky and leafless trees in the background.
A serene view of a tranquil body of water under a partly cloudy sky, with sunlight reflecting on the water's surface.

And went to explore

A brick and stone church building with a dome and cross, accompanied by a bell tower and trees, under a partly cloudy sky.

This was a very unusual site for Serbia – there was a ticket office, with a woman inside it, and an entrance fee to pay. It was about £2 each.

Also unusually, the fortress itself was incredibly well preserved and maintained

A view of a historic stone castle with a tall tower, surrounded by ancient walls and a grassy courtyard, under a partly cloudy sky.
Ruins of a stone castle with towers and a courtyard, featuring a stairway and benches, set against a cloudy sky.

We climbed up to the ramparts for a spectacular view over the walls and the river beyond

View of a medieval stone castle with battlements, overlooking a calm body of water under a partly cloudy sky.

As well as over the small town

A panoramic view of a rural landscape featuring houses on hills under a partly cloudy sky.

The fortress was built in around 1480 and was repeatedly damaged and rebuilt, abandoned and reoccupied, until it was finally destroyed in the first world war. It has been open as a tourist attraction since 2019

An aerial view of an ancient stone castle with crenellated walls and a circular tower, surrounded by pathways and grassy areas under a cloudy sky.

We loved it.

As we walked back to the truck we saw these two little cuties sitting just inside the gates

Two adorable puppies sitting closely on cobblestone pavement, one resting its head on the other's back.
Two puppies sitting close together on a cobblestone street.

They must have been about 6 months old, soft and fluffy and clearly devoted to each other.

We gave them some cuddles before heading home – it seemed harmless at the time, but I regretted it the next day.

Well, maybe regret is a little harsh, but I was clearly not going to get any exercises done that morning. They had no idea what all the fuss was about…

Two brown puppies resting on a maroon exercise mat with weights on either side, set on a rocky surface.

So in the end they gave up worrying about it went to sleep!

Two brown puppies curled up on a yoga mat placed on a gravel surface, with weights on either side.

I didn’t have the heart to move them out of the way.

So instead of training, we gave them all our bacon and got an early start for another fortress, this one on a much larger scale

A medieval castle situated on a cliff by a river, featuring multiple towers and fortifications against a clear blue sky.

Golubac fortress sits on the Danube and is about a century older than Ram

A stone castle with crenellated walls and flags on top, situated beside a body of water under a clear blue sky.
A medieval stone castle with two prominent towers under a clear blue sky.

It was stunning

View of a historic castle with stone walls and towers, surrounded by rocky terrain and hills, under a clear blue sky. Two people are walking along a stone pathway in front of the castle.
A historic stone castle situated by the water, featuring multiple towers and surrounding walls under a clear blue sky.
Scenic view of a lake with a rocky shoreline and a pathway, framed by a mountain and a blue sky with clouds.

And the whole site was impeccably maintained, a real rarity for Serbia

Scenic view of a riverside area with a large rocky hill in the background, featuring a house and seating area along the water's edge under a clear blue sky.
View of a historical cannon positioned behind a stone wall, with a wooden structure and a basket of cannonballs nearby, overlooking a water body.

With that came another entrance fee, this time it was the huge sum of £6.50 each – but it was well worth it.

We spent over five hours exploring

Interior view of a rustic stone room with wooden beams and benches, featuring natural light from small windows.

Including climbing up five stories of one of the towers on very wobbly ladders

View of wooden stairs leading up to a loft, with exposed beams and stone walls in the background.

And finding reasons to be careful out here!

Warning sign indicating the presence of venomous snakes in the area, featuring a snake symbol and text in both Croatian and English.

A large stash of cannon balls and shots had been unearthed as part of the renovations

A collection of rounded stone balls of various sizes arranged in groups on a rocky surface, with a brick wall in the background.

We were well out of the industrialised areas by now and were enjoying a much calmer and more peaceful pace. It was a very beautiful and fascinating part of the country and we were enjoying ourselves immensely

A picturesque scene of two traditional rural houses, one with a wooden balcony and the other featuring a stone foundation and a tiled roof, set against a backdrop of bare trees and a cloudy sky.

We were also on a roll with our history lessons and our next stop was to take us even further back in time. We drove to the astonishing archaeological site of Lepenski Vir.

We had hoped this would be a real highlight of our trip as it is over 10,000 years old, dating back to the early Mesolithic period. Discovered by accident in the 1960s during excavations for the nearby Iron Gorge Dam, it completely changed the assumptions around human history and migration in Europe. Before its discovery no-one had any idea that humans had settled here so early.

The story gets even more interesting as the dam was still going to be built and the site would be underwater within 5 years. The archaeologists therefore excavated the whole settlement, dug up all the dwellings and moved them 26 metres higher up the bank where they would be safe from the flood waters – and that is where they remain today.

But when we arrived it was closed. And this time it was really closed with a rope across the gate and a sign saying it had been shut since November. Our hearts sank until I fully translated the sign only to discover that after three months it was due to open – the next day!

So we settled into the car park for the night with high hopes

A scenic view of a lake surrounded by mountains under a cloudy sky, with trees in the foreground.
A scenic view of a rural landscape featuring a wooden structure and a traditional building, surrounded by leafless trees and rolling hills under a partly cloudy sky.

And those hopes were realised when staff started turning up at 8am, the rope was untied and the sign removed.

It was another fascinating visit

A modern architectural structure featuring a large glass roof supported by a white metal framework, with an entrance visible at the centre and trees in the background.

The only parts remaining of the dwellings were the foundations but the shape of them, never mind the fact that they had foundations at all, were a completely new phenomenon

Aerial view of an archaeological site featuring excavated areas with exposed remnants, set inside a modern glass structure.
An archaeological site featuring layered earth mounds and scattered stones, showcasing remnants of ancient structures.

We chatted to the guide for ages. She was not an archaeologist but had a wealth of knowledge and clearly loved her subject.

We watched a fabulous video from the original excavations which was old and cranky but all the better for it.

We then went outside to see reconstructions of what the dwellings would have looked like in their day

A thatched teepee structure in a forest setting, with bare trees and a gravel path in the foreground.
Interior of a traditional straw and wood structure with a stone floor and a small fire pit in the centre, surrounded by pink earth.

Alongside the dwellings, archaeologists found sculptures which show incredibly detailed carvings for such ancient art

A stone sculpture depicting a humanoid figure with exaggerated facial features and outstretched arms, displayed on a clear pedestal.
A stone sculpture featuring a stylised face with large eyes and an open mouth, exhibiting intricate carvings on its surface, displayed on a transparent pedestal.

Fishy features seemed to figure highly

A weathered stone sculpture resembling a human face, displayed on a glass pedestal.
A stone sculpture resembling a face, featuring prominent eyes, a flat nose, and a slightly open mouth, displayed on a podium in a museum setting.

And there were three skeletons on display each showing the different poses bodies were buried in, changing over time

An archaeological display featuring a human skeleton laid in a sandy grave, with some stones present, inside a glass case.
An ancient skeleton displayed in a glass case, surrounded by dirt and a few stones, in a museum setting.
A skeleton displayed in a glass case, lying in sandy soil with a small rock nearby.

I have mentioned before that both Bosnia and Serbia are full of litter and rubbish everywhere you go. It seems a shame that such beautiful countries are spoilt by it.

Despite the care taken to preserve this site, it was no different

A rundown shed beside a large pile of discarded plastic bottles and garbage, surrounded by bare trees and a hilly background.

It is something we still haven’t got used to and, as we travel through the region, locals tell us that they are sick of it too. There seems a real anger towards those who discard their litter so freely but also at the authorities for doing nothing about it.

We pressed on our journey along the Danube, the rest of the day spent simply enjoying the scenery and watching the world go by

A scenic view of a mountainous landscape with bare trees in the foreground, under a cloudy sky.
A scenic view of a lake surrounded by mountains, with a distant coastline visible. The foreground features a green roof, blending with the natural landscape.

It was gorgeous

A scenic view of a mountainous landscape with a calm lake in the foreground, featuring a small white house and bare trees in the foreground against a backdrop of cloudy skies.
A tranquil landscape featuring a calm lake reflecting the blue sky and fluffy clouds, surrounded by rolling hills and mountains.
A scenic view of a winding river flanked by tall cliffs under a clear blue sky, with a barge navigating the water.

We saw the rock sculpture of Decebalus on the Romanian bank – a massive sculpture of the last king of Dacia, carved in the 1990s

A misty view of a mountain with a large rock formation resembling a face, surrounded by bare trees and a river with a bridge in the foreground.

It was too far away to get a good look – or even a good photo – but even so we didn’t think Egypt had much to worry about!

A serene view of a river winding between two mountains at sunset, with a bright sun casting rays over the landscape and soft clouds in the sky.

We spent the night peacefully parked up on the banks of the river overlooking the Iron Gorge hydroelectric plant with just a few fisherman to smile and greet us

A scenic view of a river landscape with mountains in the background, featuring a dam structure along the water's edge and a clear blue sky.
A red off-road camper truck parked by a riverbank, with mountains in the background and a clear blue sky.
A scenic view of a river surrounded by hills under a clear blue sky, with a lone fisherman standing on the riverbank.

The next morning we walked up to another Roman fortress – the fortress of Diana

Ancient stone ruins with circular structures, surrounded by grassy land and distant hills under a blue sky.

We were back to Serbian business as usual with a remarkably intact, historic ruin being abandoned in the middle of nowhere with no information and no entrance fee

Ruins of ancient brick pillars and stone walls in a grassy landscape with hills in the background.
Ruins of a stone structure with brick arches in a grassy field, surrounded by hills and a clear sky.

Someone was clearly looking after it though

Remains of stone structures in a grassy area under a cloudy sky.
Ruins of an old stone building surrounded by vegetation and mountains in the background under a cloudy sky.

Our next stop was Fetislam fortress

A historic stone fort with a red-tiled roof, featuring battlements and a circular tower, set against a cloudy sky.

The outer fortress walls contained a park and a visitor centre

A landscaped park featuring a circular garden with a fountain, surrounded by stone buildings with red roofs and glass elements, under a cloudy sky.
A stone building featuring multiple arched doorways and windows, with a cobblestone pathway and small shrubs in planters alongside the structure.

Whilst the inner walls contained the more intact castle itself which was lovely

A historic stone fortress featuring a round tower on the left, a brick wall with battlements, and an arched entrance surrounded by a wooden walkway.
A stone castle wall with two round towers and a pathway beside it, under a cloudy sky.
A stone fortress wall with a circular tower, featuring a small entrance and a pathway leading into the structure. The sky is overcast, adding to the historic atmosphere.
Exterior view of a historic stone castle with red banners, wooden balconies, and a cobblestone path.
View of a historic stone fortress with a courtyard, featuring red banners and a brick tower under a cloudy sky.

We walked into the town of Kladovo for some lunch

A panoramic view of a port with numerous cranes and industrial buildings along the water's edge, reflecting on the calm surface.

Before heading further along the river to see the ruins of Trajan’s bridge

Ruins of brick structures near a calm waterbody, surrounded by dry reeds and trees, under a cloudy sky.

Built across the Danube by Emperor Trajan, it was the longest bridge in the world. After the fall of the Roman Empire, no-one had the technology to build anything like it again for over 1,000 years

A partially ruined structure with brick and stone walls near a calm water body, reflecting the skyline in the background, with a person standing on the shore in the distance.

It seems incredible that the Romans were capable of building a bridge all that way.

We were heading for the town of Vratna but it was too far to go in one day so we decided to take the road following the Danube for a little longer and find somewhere to park-up along the way.

The road quickly became a very bumpy dirt road but it was a lovely drive through some very rural villages.

We had found a potential park-up place by the banks of the river but when we turned down the path towards it we found it was too narrow and overgrown. Not wanting to get BigMog scratched any more that we had to, we decided to turn back.

It was 4:30pm and the light was beginning to fade. We needed to get parked up soon before it was too dark to see where we were going but disaster struck!

The track was too narrow to turn around so we reversed until we got to an open part with a field on one side and James started to do a three point turn. But as he reversed into the field we discovered too late that the ground was very soft and BigMog’s wheels sank into the soil. His rear wheels were buried and his front wheels were now also off the path. He had nothing to hold onto and down we went

A red off-road vehicle with a grey camper body is partially stuck in a muddy field, surrounded by sparse vegetation and hills in the background.
Close-up of a muddy tyre of a vehicle stuck in the grass, showing dirt on the rim and surrounding vegetation.

We were stuck.

We jumped out and James started digging but the ground was so soft he was getting nowhere

A partially buried off-road vehicle with muddy wheels, set in a grassy area with some overgrown vegetation.

We looked around and decided to try our first ever self-rescue using our winch.

As dusk fell around us, we got out our recovery gear and tied the winch rope around the nearest large tree. During BigMog’s build, we had almost decided not to bother repairing our old winch but at the last minute we bit the bullet and replaced the broken solenoid and rope. We were counting our blessings now

A red Mercedes off-road vehicle parked on a gravel path with a person in a blue jacket walking nearby, surrounded by bare trees and a cloudy sky.

With everything firmly attached at both ends, James jumped back into the drivers seat and started the winch

A red Mercedes off-road vehicle parked on a rugged dirt track, with a winch cable attached, under a cloudy sky.

To my dismay, I had to hold the winch rope clear of the wheels so there was no way for me to record our inaugural self-rescue. But safe to say, after a brief moment of concern when BigMog’s wheels seemed to sink deeper into the soft soil, he slowly but surely pulled himself out and got his front wheels back onto the track

A red 4x4 vehicle with a grey camper shell parked on a rural road, with a person in a blue hoodie attending to the vehicle. The landscape is grassy with some shrubs in the background.

He is powerful enough to only need two wheels on firm ground so as soon as his front wheels were clear we dismantled the winch ropes and James carefully drove him out of the thick mud

A red Mercedes off-road vehicle parked on a gravel path surrounded by sparse trees and bushes under a cloudy sky.

His wheels and chassis were caked in gloopy mud and the ruts left in the field were incredibly deep

A trench in a grassy field, showing disturbed soil and sparse vegetation.

But we were free.

We drove a few minutes down the road, throwing mud everywhere as we went, discarded another park-up place for being similarly hard to reach, and eventually gave up and pulled into a layby on the side of the road.

It was hardly ideal but it was enough – it was dark by now and we needed a glass of wine!

Fully rested and recovered from our adventure, we carried on to Vratna the next morning. We stopped just outside the gates of the Vratna monastery and tried to walk to Vratna Gates – three natural stone arches along the river gorge.

The walk started off well but as we approached the river it got very narrow and slippery with a steep drop down one side. We tried our best but it was no fun so we turned back. This was the closest we got to seeing anything at all of the gorge

A view of a rocky cliff surrounded by bare trees in a forest during an overcast day.

I had a quick wander around the pretty monastery

A scenic landscape featuring a pathway lined with street lamps, leading towards several buildings and green fields. The background showcases rocky hills and scattered trees under a cloudy sky.
A scenic landscape featuring a farm with several buildings, including a greenhouse, nestled in a lush green field. The foreground is filled with rows of small shrubs, while the background reveals a tree-covered hillside shrouded in mist.

But we had to admit that this had not been a great success.

So we left Vratna and tried our luck at the town of Rajac where there is an area high up above the main town called Rajac Pivnice which houses old winery cellars. They look like little houses but no-one lives there, instead they are full of the region’s best wine.

We parked up on the edge of the town by a modern winery

A rural scene featuring several houses with tiled roofs, surrounded by overgrown grass and trees, under a partly cloudy sky.

It was a steep 2km walk uphill to reach the cellars but the sky was blue and the town was pretty

A quiet rural road lined with stone walls and wooden gates, under a clear blue sky.

When we arrived everything seemed closed. We had anticipated this and set our expectations accordingly low, expecting just to enjoy the unusual buildings

A narrow pathway between rustic stone houses with tiled roofs under a clear blue sky. Trees are visible in the background, suggesting a serene rural setting.
A rustic stone building with a tiled roof, featuring wooden doors and a circular wooden shield leaning against the wall, set against a clear blue sky and grassy ground.
A weathered, traditional house with ornate details and wooden windows, featuring a man in an orange jacket standing in front.

We started off in the centuries old cemetery, known for its beautifully carved, monolithic tombstones dating back to the 14th century. They were possibly made by the Vlachs and are covered in both pagan and Christian symbols

Ancient stone pillars with intricate carvings in a grassy field under a blue sky.

They were remarkable

An ancient gravestone leaning against the ground, covered in moss, surrounded by other weathered gravestones in a grassy cemetery setting.
Three weathered gravestones with inscriptions and crosses, surrounded by fallen leaves in a cemetery.

And there were so many of them

A scene of an ancient graveyard with several upright and leaning tombstones, some adorned with carvings and moss, surrounded by bare trees under a clear blue sky.
An area featuring ancient stone ruins and large boulders, surrounded by sparse vegetation and trees, under a clear blue sky.

Part of the graveyard was much newer but it seemed that the families were keen to keep the traditional designs going

Two weathered gravestones in a cemetery, one featuring the name Перик Пубинка (1927-2001) and the other Перик Душан (1928-2016), alongside a wooden cross marked 'Душан'. The background includes various other gravestones and sparse vegetation under a clear blue sky.

Even though the skies were blue, it was still very cold and we wondered whether we would ever see the end of winter. But, in the middle of the cemetery, I suddenly stopped short and gasped. There on the ground was something we had not seen for months

Close-up of snowdrop flowers, featuring white petals and green stems, surrounded by dry leaves and grass.

The first buds of spring, was this the sign we had been waiting for?

New green shoots emerging from the soil, surrounded by dried leaves and small plants.

High on hope, we went back to the wine cellars looking for anywhere that might be open

A view of traditional stone buildings with sloped roofs under a clear blue sky, surrounded by gravel pathways and sparse trees.
A traditional stone house with a sloped roof, located on a gravel pathway, surrounded by similar rustic buildings under a clear blue sky.
An old stone building with a tiled roof beside two large, tipped wooden barrels in a grassy area, with clear blue skies and bare trees in the background.

Suddenly we saw people – and they were carrying wine! I stopped them and asked where it was from. It turned out they were wine makers and they took us to their cellar to try some. We bought a bottle to keep us going

A rustic wooden barrel serving as a table, topped with various bottles of spirits and a sparkling water bottle, set against a textured stone wall.

With renewed confidence we started searching in earnest and I saw an open door. We headed for it and found a lovely gentleman in his wine cellar all laid out with bottles, tables and chairs

A rustic dining area featuring a stone fireplace, wooden furniture, an antique clock, and decorative items including barrels and carvings.
A selection of wine bottles arranged in a row, featuring various labels such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Kladihnac, and Tamjanika, set against a rustic background.

We tasted four more wines, were given cheese, meats and even cake, and bought two more bottles

Interior of a wine cellar featuring wooden barrels, a wooden table with a chair, and stone walls.

Just as we were at the end of the ‘village’ we found another open door and this time we were invited to sit at a table and try another five wines

A rustic interior featuring a wooden ceiling, stone walls, and a spacious table covered with a red and white checkered tablecloth. The room contains traditional decor, including woven tapestries, glass bottles, and wooden furniture, creating a warm, homey atmosphere.

They were all delicious and we bought three bottles – these ones being poured directly from the barrels just for us

A person in a puffer jacket is crouched down, filling a glass bottle from a large container in a rustic cellar surrounded by wooden barrels.

Thrilled to have met some of the winemakers and try the wines, we started the long walk back to the truck – fortunately this time it was all downhill as I was weaving a little by now.

Fit for nothing else, we spent the rest of the day dozing and reading inside

A selection of wine bottles displayed on a countertop, including a bottle labeled 'Župljanka' and various white and red wines from a winery.

As I opened the blinds up the next morning to greet the new day, my heart sank

A snowy landscape featuring two small houses, a grey bin, and a partially visible road, under a cloudy sky.

So much for the first signs of spring

A red and grey overland vehicle parked in a snowy landscape near a wooden barn, with trees in the background and falling snow.

We were so over snow! No more, please, just let it be summer. It was too much.

We had planned to visit Felix Romuliana today, an ancient Roman complex of palaces and temples which is supposed to be incredible.

As I stared out at the white world I had a moment of doubt and wondered whether to just stay inside. But it didn’t last long. A little bit of snow was not going to stop us

A snow-covered lane winding through a forest, with trees and bushes blanketed in white snow.

We thought we would start at the burial mounds just outside the main complex but this turned out to be another one of our big mistakes. We turned up the road towards the mounds only to find it got increasingly narrow and overgrown. BigMog was getting scratched all over and we had no idea how much worse it would get.

Eventually we decided it was foolish to carry on but there was nowhere to turn around. So we had no choice but to reverse almost a kilometer back down the narrow, muddy and slippery track. It was half an hour of our lives that I never want to repeat – we inched down the path, James having to use all his skill and concentration to keep us safe.

A little shaken yet again but still all in one piece thanks to James, we made straight for the car park at the main complex. We got as far as the entrance road but it was clear no-one had been down it since the snow started.

It was also highly unlikely that the site would be open, so we stopped for a few minutes unsure whether to carry on.

But we had come this far and BigMog is a UniMog after all, so eventually we ploughed on through.

It was a breeze, he didn’t skip a beat.

We made our way to the edge of the car park and parked in the fresh snow

A red Mercedes truck with an adventure camper mounted on the back, parked in a snowy landscape with falling snow and distant trees.

Getting to the car park was not our only win. When we wandered through the main entrance of what seemed like a deserted site, we found that the ticket office was actually open and there were two people there who were amazed to see visitors

Snow-covered ruins of ancient brick walls with a prominent archway, set against a grey sky.

It was very bad timing to arrive here on such a cold and snowy day

A panoramic view of an ancient stone fortress partially covered in snow, under a grey sky.
Snow-covered ruins featuring a large archway surrounded by brick and stone walls.

The palace complex is huge and fascinating but there were no guides to tell us anything about it

Snow-covered archaeological ruins with stone foundations and structures under a cloudy sky.
Snow-covered ruins of an ancient structure, featuring brick arches and a wrought iron gate in a wintry landscape.

And we couldn’t even find the paths through

Snow-covered ruins of an old stone structure with arched openings, surrounded by a snowy landscape.
A snowy landscape featuring archaeological ruins and rolling hills in the background, with trees partially covered in snow.

We stomped through the deep snow, shivering in our big, winter coats whilst more snow pummelled down on us

A person in an orange coat walking through snow-covered ancient ruins, featuring columns and remnants of stone structures, under a grey, snowy sky.

We managed to get round the whole site

A circular mosaic with intricate geometric patterns in muted colours, surrounded by brick and stone walls, with snow visible outside.
Snow-covered ancient ruins with several columns and stone walls, set against a winter landscape.

There were even some information boards scattered around so we got the gist of it.

There was some brief respite from the cold and wet inside one of the buildings

Interior view of an ancient building featuring brick columns, stone carvings on metal stands, and a circular water feature beneath a skylight.

But eventually we had had enough and went back to warm up inside the truck.

It was so peaceful and beautiful that we decided to stay the night and by morning the sun was out and the snow had started melting. We were counting our blessings – spring had to come soon surely

A red Mercedes truck with an attached camper setup parked in a snowy landscape under a blue sky with clouds.

We had other reasons to stay hopeful – you might notice something that has been singularly missing from this post…BigMog mechanical issues.

We hadn’t fixed everything yet and the gearbox/clutch issue we were worried about in the UK was still there. But there was nothing urgent, nothing that would stop us and – most importantly – nothing new.

Life was good, BigMog was happy and Serbia was fantastic, onwards and upwards….

Jen Price

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