Interlude – A Morning with the Lions of Etosha

There is a morning that I missed out of the Etosha post as it was so incredible it deserves it´s own space.

Writing this as a seperate interlude also allows those in whom lions don´t inspire a level of awe – that tingly feeling when you get close to an animal the size, strength and beauty of a lion – to skip past without missing any of our story.

We had managed to get out of our campsite early and headed straight for the closest watering hole. We were having a remarkable few days in Etosha but the best was yet to come.

As we pulled up we saw three other vehicles at the waterside and hoped this meant there was something exciting to see. As we surveyed the surroundings we saw a lion. Then another and another and another. In all there were nine, a large, and clearly very successful, pride. We were thrilled.

Let me introduce them. First, there was Mum

The matriarch. An old and wise lioness who will be a skilled and vicious hunter – and who is most definitely in charge. The collar means she is being studied by the rangers – a sign that she is an important animal in the Park.

Then her four sisters, mature lionesses who will help her hunt, teach the young lions and keep everyone in order.

They will work together to feed and protect the pride

When a herd of zebra appeared at the bush line they showed just how alert they are.

And finally the kids. Two young lionesses and two young males.

You can tell a young lioness as their coats still have signs of their cub spots around the belly and legs. The young males seemed almost fully grown but their manes are still short and tufty, it will be a little while before they have the full crown of their mature counterparts.

At first, all nine lions were lazing in the morning sun, doing what lions do best – not a lot. It was exciting to see so many but we had no expectations of anything more at this time of day. How wrong we were!

After a few minutes some of them got up and went for a drink at the watering hole

Then the youngsters took themselves away from the others to sit together

Suddenly two of them leapt up and started running whilst their brother and sister looked on

Bear in mind that these two are young adults, playful and who have not yet fully developed their hunting skills. They need practice and what better to practice on than your big brother!

They kicked up dust everywhere! We couldn´t believe our eyes!

After a few minutes they were hot and out of breath and settled in for another drink to cool off

These are lions, members of the cat family. Cats are famous for hating water so it was strange to see these two wading up to their knees in the watering hole.

But something seemed to catch the younger male´s attention

His brother wasn´t amused, he told him lions hate water! He looked abashed…

But was undeterred!

He started splashing about, seemingly having a great time at his brother´s expense

But eventually sense took over and he realised he was a bit wet!

But it was too late! His playful little sister had been watching the fun and wanted to get involved. She came up to see what was going on….

Then, without warning, launched herself at him!

The boys tried to get away, they were all getting very wet

But she wasn´t having any of it, her big brother was going to play with her whether he wanted to or not!

Her other brother kept a low profile just in case it was his turn next

She was relentless….

And he was very patient whilst his ears got chewed

But she had way too much energy and eventually she took it too far

He warned her but she wouldn´t listen

And eventually her brother, a young male but still much bigger and stronger than her, lost his patience. Whop!

Still their brother ignored them!

But she was outraged!

Their brother shook his head in dismay

But she gave her bully of a brother a talking to, she was going straight to Mum if he didn´t say sorry!

There was a bit of a scuffle….

But eventually peace broke out and everyone was friends again!

Mum and Aunties looked on from the other side of the water wondering what all the noise was about!

To take his mind off being so wet, the young male started jumping over the rocks and got really excited when he found a stick!

He proudly brought it back to show it off to his sisters but the girls ganged up on him….

And before he know it, his kid sister had stolen it off him!

He really wasn´t having a good day!

We had never seen anything like this before in many, many years of visiting national parks. It was exciting enough seeing the two lions walking to the watering hole the previous day, this was something totally different. We felt as though we were being given an insight into their private world.

We watched, absorbed, as they jumped over the rocks

Playfully fought with each other

Enjoyed the water

And themselves

After about an hour, Mum called the pride to order

Playtime was up, it was getting warm and it was therefore time for bed.

As she led the way, the aunts and the kids alike fell into step behind her

And with that, they were gone….

The coast now clear, the zebra breathed a sigh of relief and finally came down from the bushes to drink….