Serbian Magic

We were determined to be hopeful – the first buds had started to appear on the ground and, whilst it had snowed yet again, it was thawing quickly and the sun was feeling distinctly warmer.

We packed up after our peaceful night by the Roman palace and headed off to Lazar’s Cave. But when we arrived it was closed

Snow-covered landscape with tall pine trees, an off-road vehicle parked on a gravel path, and rocky hills in the background under a cloudy sky.
Entrance of Lazareva Cave, with a metal gate and sign in Cyrillic, surrounded by rocky terrain.

A quick call to the tourist information office told us that it didn’t open until May and it was only the middle of February.

Undeterred, we decided to go for a snowy walk to a viewpoint over Lazar’s Canyon

A snowy landscape with rugged mountains in the background and a winding path through bare trees in the foreground under a cloudy sky.
A scenic view of snow-covered mountains under a cloudy sky, partially obscured by bare trees in the foreground.

The path was steep and slippery in the ice

A tall rock formation covered in snow, surrounded by sparse trees under a clear blue sky.

But the views were beautiful

Panoramic view of snow-covered hills and valleys under a partly cloudy sky.

Especially when we arrived at the official viewpoint

A person stands by a safety railing on a snowy mountain overlook, gazing at a panoramic view of rolling hills and valleys under a blue sky with fluffy clouds.

We even made another snowman, something we didn’t expect to be doing again, although he looked a bit more like a snow alien by the time we’d finished

A snowman made of snow, with a simple face made from small stones, standing on a wooden post in a snowy landscape surrounded by trees and rocky terrain.

Back down in the valley we found the river

A serene winter landscape featuring a calm river, surrounded by trees and rocky cliffs. Snow covers the ground, while a small wooden structure and a green shed are visible along the riverbank.
A serene landscape featuring a river bordered by snow-covered banks, with wooden gazebos and benches on the shore, framed by leafless trees and a partly cloudy sky.

With a fun suspension bridge

A person wearing an orange jacket walking across a snowy suspension bridge surrounded by trees and a river.

And another crossing that felt a bit more perilous….and wet

A person in an orange coat walking on a narrow concrete bridge surrounded by flowing water, with snow on the ground and trees in the background.
A scenic view of a river bordered by snow-covered ground and trees, with a person walking along a path. In the background, hills rise under a cloudy sky.

We wanted to get to Kupaj Spring for the night but our sat nav was having other ideas. It took us on a ‘short cut’ over mud roads

A snowy road winding through a winter landscape, flanked by bare trees, with visible tire tracks in the mud.

The road got narrower and muddier until it eventually ended abruptly in a snow drift that even a UniMog wasn’t going to plough through. So we had to turn back and try again, this time staying on tarmac

A snowy, winding road surrounded by frost-covered trees on a cloudy day.
A winding, snow-covered road surrounded by trees lightly coated with frost, creating a serene winter landscape.

As we drove, we descended further into the valley and finally left the snow behind

A straight road lined with grassy fields and a few trees, under a cloudy sky.

We were tired and relieved to eventually make it to the springs and find a large, flat car park for the night.

We hadn’t been sure what to expect from Kupaj. We had no doubt that it would be lovely in summer when we could swim and lounge around having cool drinks. But in the middle of winter it might be a little harder to amuse ourselves.

We needn’t have worried

A partially submerged building beside a river, surrounded by bare trees and a misty hillside.
An old, moss-covered green vehicle parked on a gravel path, showing signs of rust and deterioration, with a house and cars visible in the background.

The thermal pool was pretty

A tranquil scene featuring a house beside a calm pond, with trees and a grassy area in the background.
A tranquil scene by a river surrounded by bare trees and mossy branches reflecting on the water's surface.

And the small lake and cave further up were lovely

A serene natural scene featuring a still, clear blue pond surrounded by bare trees and rocky terrain, with a cave entrance visible in the background.

With crystal clear, blue water

A serene landscape featuring a clear blue pool surrounded by dense trees, with a small waterfall cascading over a rocky edge in the foreground.
Aerial view of a waterfall cascading over a rocky ledge into a clear pool of water, surrounded by lush greenery.

All along the edge of the river were trout ponds

A tranquil riverscape featuring a flowing river bordered by bare trees, with a narrow pathway alongside the water.
A person standing on a narrow path beside a flowing river, surrounded by trees and rocky terrain, with a gentle stream visible on the left.

It was fascinating to see thousands of the fish dashing around. These ones were the babies

A school of small fish swimming in shallow water, with a sandy and rocky bottom visible. Some aquatic plants are present along the edges.

The next pond along housed the teenagers

A large group of dark fish swimming in clear water, with some rocks visible above the water's surface.

And the last one had the adults, but I couldn’t get a good photo of them as the sun was glinting off the water too much.

There were signs up promising cheese sold by the kilo but everywhere seemed disappointingly closed. So when an older couple appeared who were clearly the owners, I ran over and asked whether they had any for sale.

The did and I became the proud owner of 1kg of tangy, salty and delicious Serbian cheese and am still eating my way through it some six weeks later

A cutting board with a block of cheese and sliced cheese, accompanied by several slices of bread and utensils.

Having been disappointed at Lazar’s Cave, we tried again at Resavska Cave and this time we were in luck. We arrived just after midday and there was a tour going at 2pm

An interior view of a cave entrance with rocky walls and a staircase leading down into the cavern. Soft lighting and a green sign are visible in the background.

These caves were beautiful

Interior of a cave featuring various stalactites and stalagmites, illuminated by a spotlight, showcasing intricate rock formations.
An illuminated cave wall featuring intricate limestone formations and stalactites.

We walked through magnificent halls

An illuminated cave interior featuring stalactites and stalagmites, with rocky walls and various textures.
Interior of a cave showcasing impressive rock formations and stalactites illuminated by soft lighting.
A large underground cave with impressive stalactites and stalagmites, illuminated by soft lighting.

Full of stalactites and stalagmites

Interior view of a cave featuring dramatic rock formations and stalactites illuminated by soft lighting.
A tall, textured rock formation illuminated in a cave setting, with a few visitors exploring the area in the background.
Intricate limestone formations inside a cave, illuminated by soft lighting, showcasing stalactites and stalagmites.
An intricate cave interior featuring stunning stalactites and stalagmites, illuminated by soft lighting, showcasing natural rock formations.

And some rocks that looked as though they had been folded

An intricate formation of rock and mineral textures inside a cave, displaying layered, striated patterns with warm lighting highlighting the contours.
Interior of a cave featuring stunning rock formations, stalactites and stalagmites, with visitors exploring the illuminated pathways.

It started to get a bit tight towards the end but, just as I was reaching for James’ hand, we popped out into fresh air again.

Our next stop was Veliki Buk waterfalls. We parked up close by and walked down a well-marked path that took us first to the top of the falls

A beautiful waterfall cascading down a rocky cliff, surrounded by bare trees and shrubs during the early spring season.
A man walking along a stone pathway beside a serene stream, with wooden bridges and bare trees in a winter landscape.

And then down to the bottom

A waterfall cascading down a rocky cliff surrounded by bare trees and dry vegetation, with water splashing into a pool below.
A serene river flowing over rocky terrain, surrounded by bare trees and patches of moss, set in a natural landscape.
A dilapidated building with a wooden frame and a tiled roof, surrounded by bare trees and sparse vegetation, set against a cloudy sky.

It was only small but very peaceful and the eagle-eyed of you may have spotted James’ attire – no big winter coat! It was distinctly warmer and we were revelling in it.

I realised that we had been out of towns and far away from anything industrial for days and it was wonderful. I couldn’t help but wonder why Serbia is not a much bigger tourist destination – it has everything from history to nature to culture. It was quickly turning into one of our favourite places.

To prove the point, we went from caves and waterfalls to another cultural icon – the Manasija Monastery, a 15th Century fortress which holds the tomb of the Serbian despot Stefan Lazarevic.

It took a while for us to get used to reading about ‘despots’ without thinking of oppressive dictators – in Serbia it simply means Prince. In fact Stefan Lazarevic is a Serbian hero, considered a great knight and military leader who gained independence for Serbia in around 1400.

Sadly, no photos were allowed in the church where his tombs lies, but I made up for that by taking a thousand photos of the fortress itself

View of a historic stone castle tower with a wooden staircase leading to its entrance, alongside a modern white building and remnants of castle walls.
A panoramic view of an ancient stone castle surrounded by a grassy area and trees, under a cloudy sky.

It was so picturesque

A historic church with ornate domes and crosses, located beside ancient stone walls and fortifications under a cloudy sky.
Aerial view of the ruins of a stone castle surrounded by trees and hills.

We found a guide to take us up to the ramparts and looked down over the church

A person in a dark jacket walks along a stone pathway on top of a castle wall, with towers made of stone in the background and a house with a red roof visible nearby.
Aerial view of a historic monastery complex with stone walls, multi-domed church, and adjacent residential buildings, set against a mountainous backdrop.
Aerial view of a historic church with domes, surrounded by green gardens and trees, with ancient stone ruins in the background.

We had been doing so many wonderful things that it was time for some chores – the endless round of laundry and shopping. We headed for the town of Cuprija and parked up on the edge of town opposite a large cemetery.

It wasn’t exactly pretty but it was relatively quiet and seemed safe enough. We spent the rest of the day doing laundry, food shopping and some desperately needed Mog cleaning

Close-up of a dirty side panel and tyre of a vehicle belonging to Sidetracked Gas, with visible wear and mud.
A person washing a large expedition vehicle with a lion design on the side, using a high-pressure water hose.

Fortunately, Serbia is full of car washes – clearly we weren’t the only ones needing their services on a regular basis.

After a day of chores we wanted some excitement but it was not to be.

We drove to Bovansko Lake

A panoramic view of a calm river surrounded by hills under a cloudy sky, featuring houses along the riverbank.

It was nice enough – and very big – but the day was grey and it had started to snow again so it fell a bit flat. We had hoped to drive the long, circular trail around it but when we got there it was far too narrow for BigMog.

So we pressed on to Vrmdzancko Lake but again found the roads to it unpassable and turned back.

Our final stop of the day was to be Seselac Cave, another place that we expected to be hard to get to. We feared that our entire day was going to be wasted.

The cave was over 600m up and, as we drove, the temperatures dropped and snow started to appear on the ground again

A view from a vehicle driving along a snow-dusted rural road, surrounded by fields and hills under a cloudy sky.

The road got narrower and muddier with overgrown branches and deep snow. It was only just above freezing and we were sick of it. We stopped to assess whether or not to continue but in the end decided to throw caution to the wind and go for it.

BigMog pushed through the branches, dug his wheels into the snow and mud and pulled us around the final bend, safely into small car park which had clearly not been used by anyone for quite some time. The snow lay untouched and we had no idea what was under it. As we pulled in, we heard cracking under the wheels but it was only the ice, the ground beneath was solid

A red expedition vehicle parked on a snowy landscape with trees in the background and cloudy skies.

We found a level spot, got the ladders out and dashed inside to warm up

A large expedition vehicle parked in a snowy landscape, surrounded by foggy trees.

It was only 2pm but we had not had the best of days and were ready to just curl up with a cup of tea and a good book.

It was minus 1 when we woke up and I trained in the snow yet again. But it was somehow fine – our positive vibes were still intact.

We walked along the pretty, woodland path towards the cave, passing a lake on the way

A snowy landscape featuring a creek flowing through a rocky area, with trees in the background and a bench nearby.
A person in an orange jacket walking along a snowy path near a stream in a winter landscape with bare trees and a bench in the background.
A serene winter landscape featuring a calm river bordered by snow-covered banks and bare trees, with patches of dried reeds along the water's edge.
A person in an orange coat stands by a snow-covered riverbank, overlooking a small waterfall and a calm, reflective body of water surrounded by bare trees.

Seselac Cave is very understated, there are no gates, guides or tickets to worry about – it’s just there for anyone who wants to poke around

A person in an orange jacket standing near the entrance of a snowy cave, surrounded by rocks and a small stream.

We found it fascinating

Inside a cave with rocky walls and a stream flowing through, illuminated by light at the entrance.
A person standing at the entrance of a cave, silhouetted against a snowy landscape with trees in the background.
A person standing in a cave with rocky walls, examining ice formations on the ground, and surrounded by a natural and rugged landscape.

It was surprisingly big inside

A person in an orange jacket standing inside a large cave, with light illuminating the cave entrance and moss-covered rocks on the ground.

With lots of passageways leading to who knows where

An underground tunnel with rocky walls, dimly lit by a light source illuminating the ground, showing a rough, uneven path and scattered stones.

We even found two small bats curled up on the ceiling

Two bats resting on a rock surface inside a cave.

In the entrance there was snow and ice

Icicles hanging from a rocky wall inside a cave, with green moss and a person in the background.

But the deeper we went in, the warmer and dryer it got

A person wearing an orange jacket stands in a cave, holding a flashlight that illuminates the rocky walls and formations around them.

And it was pitch black, the only light coming from our torches

A person in a bright orange jacket exploring a cave, illuminated by a flashlight, with rocky walls and uneven terrain.

All the previous night I had been worried that it would snow again and we wouldn’t be able to get back to the main road, but my fears had been groundless. BigMog didn’t miss a beat as we slowly made our way back down the track

View from inside a vehicle looking down a snow-covered forest track, with trees lining both sides.

And we were soon driving off towards the spa town of Soko Banja.

For all that the previous day had been disappointing, today turned into one of our best. Not only had the cave been fascinating, Soko Banja was a very pretty little place that felt friendly and welcoming

A tree-lined street featuring shops and cafes, adorned with planters and decorative elements, under a cloudy sky.

We found the old Turkish Hamman and went inside to see what was on offer

Historic stone building with a tile roof, surrounded by bare trees and a stone path.

The lovely manager showed us two separate spa pools, either of which we could have exclusive use of for 30 minutes for just £13

A tranquil circular bathing pool in a serene interior, featuring stone walls and soft lighting.
A serene spa environment featuring a circular hot tub with clear water, surrounded by stone walls. Several wooden loungers are positioned nearby, alongside a small table and a coat rack. The lighting is soft, creating a calming atmosphere.

We were thrilled and booked one along with a back massage each.

It was a couple of hours of rare luxury for us and we left feeling rejuvenated, finishing the whole thing off with a lovely meal in a nearby restaurant.

We headed to the old fort town of Soko Grad to park-up for the night

A red Mercedes off-road vehicle with a grey camper shell, adorned with a lion graphic, parked on a gravel path surrounded by bare trees and hills.

I had eaten far too much at lunchtime and was feeling a little uncomfortable so I decided to go for a quick walk which looked as though it was circular on the map

A wooden bridge crosses a small stream surrounded by bare trees and rocky hills. In the background, there is a modest house and a sign, while a picnic table and bin are visible in the foreground.

It was lovely

A scenic view of a rocky hillside with a cave opening, surrounded by bare trees and a few evergreen trees, featuring a small village with red-roofed houses in the valley below.

But just as I thought I was nearly back at the Mog, my path abruptly ended in a cliff edge and the rest of the road was a bit lower down than I had anticipated!

Scenic view of a forested valley with bare trees and rocky hills under a cloudy sky, featuring a winding road and a caravan in the distance.

It was a long walk back….

Soko Grad itself is a ruined fortress perched high on a cliff. We bundled up in our warm coats the next morning and started the trek up.

At first it was a lovely walk along the river

A scenic view of a river winding through a wooded landscape, with rocky banks and bare trees along the water's edge.

Although we did have to do a bit of paddling at the beginning

A man in an orange jacket and a blue beanie stands by a rushing river, surrounded by bare trees and a rocky path in a natural setting.

We had read that the last few hundred metres were a rock scramble, and some people even said you took your life in your hands going up. So we weren’t sure whether we would make it all the way. We were very close to the top and so far it had been a little steep but easy enough. But just as we were starting to feel confident, we found the cliff face

A view of a dilapidated stone castle on a hillside, surrounded by bare trees and rocky terrain under a cloudy sky.

James can climb up and down anything, he’s like a mountain goat. I’m pretty good at climbing up but am embarrassingly hopeless at getting back down again. James looked at me questioningly but I was determined to get up there and worry about the descent later.

So up we went

A man climbing a rocky path in a mountainous area, surrounded by bare trees and rocky terrain.
A person stands on rocky terrain, gazing downwards, surrounded by sparse trees and a hilly landscape.

The views were worth every last scramble

Ruins of an old stone structure on a hillside with rocky terrain and sparse vegetation under a cloudy sky.
Scenic landscape view featuring rocky hills in the foreground and rolling valleys in the background under a cloudy sky.

Picture perfect

A person in an orange jacket stands on a rocky ledge, overlooking a hilly landscape with ruins and mountains in the distance under a cloudy sky.
A panoramic view of a mountainous landscape featuring rocky formations and sparse vegetation, with rolling hills and valleys visible in the distance under a cloudy sky.

I tried hard not to think about how I was going to get down until I really had to and in the end I came up with the perfect solution

A person in orange trousers sits on rocky terrain covered with moss, with a stone structure in the background against a cloudy sky.

I came down on my bum!

A person sitting on rocky terrain covered with moss, in front of a partially ruined stone building surrounded by sparse trees.

High on my achievement, our next stop was the village of Ozren where we found the Ripaljka waterfall

A serene landscape featuring a cascading waterfall surrounded by rocks and lush greenery, with water flowing gently over a rocky stream.

It was only small but the walk down to the bottom was pretty

A serene natural landscape featuring a flowing river, surrounded by trees in winter, with walking paths and benches visible along the riverbank.

As was the walk around the village itself

A person stands on a stone platform in an overgrown area, with an abandoned building and chimney visible in the background, surrounded by leafless trees and mountains.
A tranquil pond surrounded by bare trees, with a small waterfall in the background and a wooden gazebo nearby. The water reflects the surrounding landscape, creating a serene atmosphere.

After a quick lunch we carried on to the Bubanj Memorial Park, on the edge of the city of Nis, where we planned to stay for a couple of nights.

This monument is made of three fists of different sizes depicting men’s, women’s and children’s hands defying the enemy. They symbolise the 12,000 people who were executed on this hill by the Nazis during WWII

A landscape featuring three large, abstract concrete monuments on grassy ground, surrounded by trees under a cloudy sky.

We had a quick wander around, soaking in the atmosphere

Two large, abstract concrete sculptures resembling towers in a grassy landscape, surrounded by trees under a cloudy sky.
A modern stone monument with abstract carvings, set on a grassy area surrounded by trees under a cloudy sky.

And found a new mum with her puppies in the middle of the park

A beagle stands near a purple dog house with two dogs visible inside. The scene is set in a grassy area with scattered straw and outdoor elements.
Four playful puppies peeking out from a small doorway, with a purple wooden background.
A group of four puppies peeking out from a small opening in a dog house, with a purple background.

As usual in Serbia, the locals were taking care of them providing a house, food and water to keep them going.

It had been a long day so we settled in for the night, trying not to notice the busy traffic going past on the main road.

Nis is not the most exciting of places but it does have two things worth seeing – Skull Tower and the Red Cross Concentration Camp. Both are symbols of past atrocities inflicted on the Serbian people by would-be oppressors.

We had no appetite for driving into the city so the next morning we headed for a bus stop and when the bus arrived we discovered something new about Serbia – all public transport is free! The bus driver waved us away when I tried to give him cash and the other passengers called out to tell us it was not needed. It was a revelation.

Our first stop was Skull Tower, built by the Turks in 1809 and originally consisting of 952 skulls embedded into the walls. The skulls were those of Serbian soldiers who lost their lives in the First Serbian Uprising

A wall displaying several human skulls set in stone niches, with a small arched window in the upper section.
A wall displaying multiple human skulls embedded in a stone surface, showcasing a historical or archaeological context.

It had been intended to instil fear into the locals and keep them discouraged and subdued but had the opposite effect. It became a symbol of pride, a reminder of the country’s struggle for independence, with thousands of people making a pilgrimage to see it every year.

Most of the skulls have fallen from the tower, been removed by relatives or even stolen by souvenir hunters so only 58 remain

Three human skulls embedded in a stone wall with a rustic texture.
A display of human skulls arranged in recesses within a stone wall, showcasing a historical or archaeological context.
A display of multiple skulls set in a stone wall, showcasing various positions and conditions of the remains.

A church was built around the original tower in 1878 to help preserve it

A small yellow church with architectural details, surrounded by trees in a park setting, featuring benches and a pathway.

It was a gruesome but thought-provoking visit.

We then jumped back on the bus to the Red Cross Concentration camp – a desolate place

A wide pathway leading towards a gate in a concrete wall, flanked by grass and trees under a cloudy sky.
A historical site featuring two buildings, one with a red tiled roof and the other in grey with multiple windows, set against a cloudy sky and green lawn.
Faded inscription on a building wall featuring the text 'WACHE 44' alongside a swastika symbol.

Up to 35,000 people were detained here during the war in unimaginable conditions. 10,000 were executed and the rest were deported to other camps across Europe

Exterior view of a grey building with a pitched roof, featuring barred windows and grassy surroundings under a cloudy sky.
A modern observation tower with a flat roof, situated next to a stone wall and surrounded by leafless trees, set against a cloudy sky.

The main block is now a museum

Interior of a historical exhibition space featuring a mural of a prison camp entrance, barbed wire, and photographs depicting camp life, with sandbags and barriers in the foreground.
A vintage black rotary telephone on a table surrounded by various documents, including maps and letters, displayed under glass.
A black and white mosaic depicting abstract human figures engaged in dynamic poses, showcasing movement and emotion.
Interior of an old prison building featuring multiple jail cells with wooden doors and barred windows, under a slanted wooden roof.

Where you can see writing on the walls, messages of both hope and despair scrawled by the victims

A textured wall featuring handwritten inscriptions and markings, partially obscured by dust and dirt.
A close-up view of a textured wall featuring various inscriptions and scribbles, showcasing marks from different eras.

After two such powerful monuments to the devastation of war, we were in need of cheering up so walked across town to an astonishingly good Chinese restaurant and then found ourselves in a Stihl shop on the way back to the Mog where I bought James a chain saw for his birthday – what every Nomad needs!

A STIHL MS 172 chainsaw on a worktop, accompanied by a bottle of STIHL ForestPlus oil, a spare chain and several bottles of oil in the background, alongside a product box.

During all of our recent explorations, BigMog had been happily plodding along, doing his thing and not causing any problems. It was tempting to let him get on with it and hope everything carried on like that, but James was keen to spend a bit of time checking him over to see how things really were.

So we found somewhere to park-up that was flat and tarmac and settled in for the night. It wasn’t pretty, in fact it felt as though we were in the middle of an airport or industrial estate, but it was quiet enough and no-one bothered us.

James spent the next morning checking the portals and finding that they were all good. He also replaced the o-ring on the fuel tank sender as it had become loose and fuel was now leaking out of the top as well as the bottom of the tank. This was less successful and we were beginning to think that the only solution was whole a new tank

A close-up view of a black fuel tank under a truck, featuring a measuring device and tools on a towel nearby. The ground is paved, showing tire treads and additional tools in the background.

We were in the deep south of the country by now and our next stop was to be our most southerly point – the hydroelectric plant at Vucje

A scenic view of a small stone house next to a river, with a waterfall flowing nearby. The background features a rocky hillside and bare trees, creating a tranquil natural setting.

This historic building has been continuously operating since 1903, one of the oldest in the Balkans

A stone wall with arches next to a flowing river, with a historic building and tall trees in the background surrounded by a hillside.

We were disappointed to find there was no visitor’s centre, but the river downstream had been made into a tourist spot with benches and a picnic area

A scenic view of a waterfall cascading over rocks, surrounded by trees and hills. A path leads alongside the water, with rustic buildings visible in the background.

As always, it would be lovely for swimming in the summer but for now we stuck to walking around it

A scenic view of a river running through rocky terrain, flanked by trees and a walking path. The landscape features a small slide in red and blue, adding a playful element to the natural setting.
A peaceful river flowing through a rocky landscape, with a small waterfall and greenery on the hillsides, under a cloudy sky.

And we certainly didn’t fancy the slides!

Two water slides, one red and one blue, positioned on stone supports beside a river, with rocky terrain and vegetation in the background.

We had expected to be staying here overnight but it was too early in the day to park-up so instead we drove to the Empress’s City – Justiniana Prima – another Roman ruin, this time dating back to the 6th century.

We arrived just after 5pm and found a large, flat and completely empty car park – the perfect place to stay.

The weather had been slowly but surely improving and we had had a little celebration earlier in the day as BigMog’s temperature gauge told us it was a tropical 13 degrees

Display showing Ruuvi sensor readings for BigMog, including temperature of 13.14 °C, relative humidity of 58.23%, and dew point of 5.12 °C, with a background image of a truck in a forest.
Screenshot

It also hadn’t showed any sign of snowing for a few days.

It wasn’t quite so warm the next day as we wandered around the site but we had little to complain about

Ruins of an ancient stone structure set against a cloudy sky, with grassy surroundings.
A close-up of a single yellow flower growing in green grass, with additional flower buds visible in the background.
A black beetle perched on a light-coloured stone surface.

The Empress’s City was huge and it took us all morning to get round it

Ancient stone ruins with brick detailing set against a cloudy sky, featuring overgrown grass and trees in the background.
View of ancient stone ruins featuring arched brickwork, with a grassy area beyond and cloudy skies in the background.
Ruins of an ancient structure surrounded by grassy areas and trees under a partly cloudy sky.

There were even some sign boards to tell us what we were looking at – lots of churches

Ruins of an ancient stone structure on a grassy hill, with a backdrop of rolling hills and a cloudy sky.
Ruins of an ancient stone structure surrounded by grassy fields and hills under a cloudy sky.

The Acropolis

Ruins of an ancient building surrounded by brick walls, with a sandy floor and scattered bags on the ground. A tree is visible in the background under a cloudy sky.
Ruins of an ancient structure made of stone with a backdrop of cloudy sky and sparse trees.

And various residential buildings and streets

Ruins of an ancient brick structure with an arched opening, surrounded by grass and rocky terrain under a cloudy sky.
View of ancient stone ruins on a hillside, surrounded by autumn trees and rolling green fields under a cloudy sky.
Ruins of ancient stone structures in a grassy landscape, surrounded by trees and hills under a cloudy sky.

Typical of Serbia, we had tried to buy tickets at the visitor’s centre but, whilst it was open, there was no-one there. So after seeing the ruins we went back to try again and this time found someone at the desk. It was quite hard to persuade her to take our money but eventually she relented and sold us tickets.

She also played us a video of a 3D model showing what the city would have looked like back in its day which brought the whole thing to life.

From there we made our way west towards Devil’s Town. As we drove, we gazed out of the window at the endless rolling farmland on either side

A straight, empty road stretching into the distance, flanked by fields and hills under a cloudy sky.

We were really enjoying driving through the beautiful countryside and were feeling very relaxed.

There are a lot of birds of prey in Serbia and as we drove we frequently saw eagles, hawks or falcons flying overhead, diving for their prey or just sitting in the trees. They were magnificent with their huge wingspan stretching out across the sky. At one point an eagle flew up right in front of us and we had to brake hard to avoid it hitting the windscreen.

We passed over Radan mountain

Panoramic view of snow-capped mountains under a clear blue sky, with a rural landscape in the foreground featuring bare trees and a winding path.

As we neared the peak we started to see snow again and the temperature noticeably dropped, but once we were safely back down to 1,100m we stopped for lunch and the world was looking beautiful again

A wooden picnic table and benches under a green-roofed gazebo, set against a backdrop of rolling hills and a clear blue sky.
A red off-road vehicle with a grey camper body, featuring a lion's eye mural, parked in a rural landscape with sparse vegetation and a distant forest under a clear blue sky.

Devil’s Town itself was much lower down and by the time we arrived in the late afternoon it was lovely

Entrance gate to a forested area with a rustic wooden structure beside it, under a clear blue sky.

The sun glinted off the mountains and everything was bathed in a warm glow

A serene forest scene featuring bare trees and a clear blue sky, with wooden structures nestled among the foliage along a winding path.
A serene woodland scene featuring a flowing stream surrounded by bare trees in early spring, with sunlight filtering through the branches.

The place reminded us of the wild west

A wooden cabin surrounded by bare trees on a hillside during autumn. The cabin features a sloped roof and is partially shaded, with wooden signage visible. Stone features are placed in the foreground, adding to the rustic charm of the scene.

With the addition of some unusual sculptures hidden amongst the trees

A close-up view of a tall, black wooden sculpture resembling a humanoid figure, standing on a stone base in a forest with dry leaves and trees in the background.
A black sculpture of a standing figure on a stone base, surrounded by bare trees and fallen leaves in a forested area.

The ticket office was closed but the gates were open with a welcome sign above so we went in and started walking the trails through the forest. The first thing we found were the openings to the old mine shafts

A shallow stream flowing through a rocky landscape with reddish-brown mineral deposits and overhanging vegetation.
Entrance to a dark cave surrounded by autumn leaves and rocky terrain.

This one was up a small slope that turned out to be gloopy mud, turning James’ boots bright orange

A person in a blue jacket leans into a dark cave entrance, surrounded by rocky terrain and fallen leaves.

The Red Well is a natural spring that is highly acidic and iron-rich, staining the ground all around

A wooden sign reading 'Red Well' in both Serbian Cyrillic and English, situated near a small stream surrounded by autumn leaves and rocky terrain.

Near the top was the small church of Petke where believers wrap white cloth around the nearby trees to ward off disease

A small wooden chapel featuring a cross on the roof and a religious painting above the entrance, surrounded by bare trees and a stone path.

Inside is an unusual icon – an ant on which has been painted the image of a saint

A close-up view of a small, rectangular wooden block with a shiny surface, featuring a dark blemish in the centre.

We didn’t have a magnifying glass with us so just had to believe it!

A person sitting on a bench, wearing a blue jacket and a beanie, in a forested area with bare trees and a stone pathway leading into the distance.

Finally, we made it to Devil’s Town itself – a rare natural phenomenon of 200 pillars formed over millennia by erosion, the stone caps protecting the earth beneath them

Tall, pointed rock formations with a steep, textured hillside in the background, showcasing a mix of earthy tones and sparse vegetation.
A scenic view of a rocky cliff featuring unique spire-like formations under a clear blue sky.

We couldn’t have asked for a better setting, the late afternoon sun glancing off the pillars

A rocky cliff with spire-like formations under a clear blue sky.
A tall, weathered rock formation stands prominently against a clear blue sky, surrounded by steep, rocky terrain and sparse vegetation.

It was gorgeous

Rock formations resembling spires on a hillside, with a clear blue sky above and dry vegetation around.
A tall, weathered rock formation standing on a hillside, with sparse vegetation and a clear blue sky. The moon is visible in the sky above.

We climbed to the very top of the observation tower where we had a magnificent view over the forested mountain slopes

A wooden staircase winding up a steep hill, surrounded by sparse trees and a hilly landscape under a clear sky.

There are a few legends surrounding these pillars, the most famous being that they were wedding guests who angered the devil and were turned to stone. Another is that they were students who lost a bet with the devil and a third that they are devils themselves.

Whichever story you prefer, the whole place had an enigmatic and eery feel and we loved it.

So much so that we decided to stay the night in the car park and slept soundly in perfect peace and darkness

A rugged truck parked on a roadside near a forested hillside with bare trees, under a clear sky.

We had been doing our best to dodge the cold and the snow as much as possible. So our next stop was one which we were not sure was a good idea – we were heading to the highest peak in Serbia and its most popular ski resort – Kopaonik.

I had planned this carefully, making sure we could get all the way up and all the way back down again in one day, saving us from a freezing cold and snowy night. The last thing we wanted was a frozen toilet again!

As we started off, the roads were pretty and the weather was lovely

A winding road through a rural landscape featuring leafless trees, rolling hills, and a clear blue sky.
A large building with a dark roof situated on a hillside surrounded by bare trees and a mountainous landscape under a clear blue sky.

But an hour later we were high up and it was getting very cold

A snow-covered road surrounded by tall pine trees under a blue sky.

By the time we reached the ski resort we were 1,800m up and thick snow lay all around

A snow-covered landscape featuring several traditional houses surrounded by tall evergreen trees under a clear blue sky.

The town was heaving with people, all here for the skiing. We watched them strutting around in their ski gear and couldn’t help but shiver, remembering Sarajevo.

There was no chance of parking in any of the car parks, the whole place was full. So we found a spot just outside town and pulled over. We had intended to find a nice restaurant but we were too far away to walk back so ended up with pizza in the truck

A rugged off-road vehicle with an artistic lion illustration on the side, parked on snow with tall evergreen trees in the background and a clear blue sky.

We weren’t too disappointed by this, there is a distinct feel that is common to all ski resorts whichever country they are in – from the alpine architecture to the high cost of everything – and we only had a passing interest in it

Snow-covered buildings with a mix of architectural styles, including modern and traditional, set against a clear blue sky. The scene features a road lined with parked cars and snowdrifts, indicating a winter setting.

It also meant that we were heading back down to warmer temperatures much earlier than expected and any risk of being stuck up there overnight was gone.

We had now followed the Kosovo border all the way from the east, over the top to the west and were travelling south again towards the Crna Reka monastery. To get there we had to pass through the town of Novi Pazar and for the first and only time in Serbia, we felt a little uneasy.

The town felt very moody, there were piles of rubbish heaped up several metres high along the roadside and everywhere seemed very rough and gritty. The traffic was chaotic, many streets were gridlocked. We inched our way through, cars coming at us from all directions.

Eventually we made it out in one piece and were thankful to be on the open road again

A winding dirt road through a frost-covered landscape, surrounded by bare trees and rolling hills under a clear blue sky.

We made it to within 2.5km of the monastery, on a small dirt road alongside the Crna river, and decided to park-up for the night ready to go and see the monastery the next day

An off-road vehicle parked beside a winding dirt road, surrounded by trees and hills under a clear blue sky.
A serene river flowing through a bare landscape during early morning, with frost on the ground and trees on a slope in autumn colours.

Crna Reka is not like any other monastery, this one is hidden away amongst the cliffs of the Mokra Gora mountain range and actually carved into the rocks

As soon as we arrived we loved it

A rugged dirt road winding through barren trees and rocky mountains under a clear blue sky with a vehicle driving along the path.
Historic building partially built into a rocky cliff, featuring a stone structure with wooden balconies and a sloping roof, surrounded by trees and natural rock formations.
A stone water fountain with a small stone bowl, featuring a decorative arch and an icon above it, surrounded by a natural landscape and cobblestone path.

The new monastic building was a beautifully built stone house, very similar to something we would love to build as our forever home

A traditional stone building with a wooden balcony, set in a natural landscape with trees and a clear blue sky.

The old church, tucked away in the rocks, was very atmospheric

A historic building nestled against a steep rocky cliff, featuring a wooden balcony and a sloping roof, surrounded by bare trees and blue sky.
A mountain monastery with a wooden walkway leading to its entrance, surrounded by rocky outcrops and trees.

As we crossed the wooden bridge, a monk hurried past us waving a key saying that he would open the chapels for us.

We poked around inside for a while, peering into the tiny, carved spaces

A narrow corridor with rough stone walls, featuring a patterned rug on the floor and a candlestick holder on the left side.
A dimly lit underground space featuring rough stone walls and a wooden beam ceiling. The floor is uneven with large stones, and a doorway is visible on the right side, leading to another area.
Interior of a dimly lit cave with stone walls, featuring a patio heater, shelving units, and candles, creating a unique atmospheric space.
Interior of a dimly lit room with wooden beams and stone walls, featuring several religious icons displayed on the walls.

And looked out from the vaulted terraces

A person standing on a wooden walkway inside a rustic building with stone walls and a sloped roof.
A wooden bridge with a sloped roof spans over a rocky area, leading to a small wooden building in a natural landscape with trees in the background.

Three other visitors had gone into the main chapel with a priest and closed the door. We heard chanting and one of the women was crying. We didn’t want to disturb them but eventually the door was opened and we were invited in

Interior of a dimly lit ancient chapel with weathered stone walls and decorative frescoes on the wall. A stone pillar stands near a doorway, while a heater and a lantern provide some light.

I stood inside the tiny space with the other four people, all of them kissing various icons and chanting in a long, ritualised sequence that we had seen in every church we had visited across the region and would continue to see many more times. One woman looked at me, pulled my (very cold) hands out of my pockets and gestured for me to go ahead and do the same. I smiled and declined the offer, earning myself a kiss blown in my direction.

We were on a roll with monasteries, the next one was Gradac

A stone church with a domed roof, set against a clear blue sky and surrounded by greenery, showcasing a blend of architectural styles.
A historic building with a stone base and wooden balconies set against a clear blue sky, surrounded by landscaped gardens and trees.

This was completely different from small and isolated Crna Reka. In fact, for the first time in many months, there were many other people visiting.

It was the week-end, the sun was out and the day was beautiful

Historic stone church with a domed roof, surrounded by trees and hills under a clear blue sky.

There was a baptism taking place inside the small church which explained a lot of the other visitors. I poked my head inside the door for a moment to see inside

Interior of a historic church with a congregation gathered for a ceremony, featuring ornate chandeliers and religious decor.
Interior view of a historic church featuring arched ceilings, intricate stone walls, and religious frescoes.

But then left them to it whilst we walked around the grounds then climbed up to the top of the tower and looked down

View of a rocky outcrop with a wooden railing, featuring a small church and a tall tower against a clear blue sky.
A stone church with a domed roof surrounded by mountains and a tree in a grassy area, with benches and a person seated nearby.

Apparently Queen Jelena was buried here in 1314 and being somewhere with such a long history was fascinating. But the best part of it was simply sitting on a bench in the sun, warming ourselves under the blue skies and dreaming of summer….

Jen Price

Log in

Leave a comment