Sun, Sea and Smiles

With our mojos back on track and a little more optimism installed by the wine, we decided to try and book a boat trip on Lake Skadar after all. Not from the town we had left behind but from Viropazar further down the road. From there we would be able to see the whole lake rather than just a narrow arm.

We were still in the low season though and at first we thought we would be out of luck – no group trips were running, only very expensive private tours. But eventually we were pointed in the right direction and found an operator who had started their group tours early.

With a trip booked we said our goodbyes to the winery and carried on down the narrow mountain roads towards the lake. This time, however, the roads were not quite so relaxing – in fact they were decidedly nerve wracking as we brushed past bushes and branches and tried not to fall off the edge down the cliff.

At one point we came head to head with another truck and I closed my eyes and held my breath hoping for dear life that BigMog would keep his footing as we squeezed past, teetering on the edge.

We eventually made it to Viropazar and the whole place felt very much like a tourist trap. It was pretty and not particularly busy but there was little there other than hotels, bars and boat tour operators

A view of a calm waterway with several boats moored, including a brightly coloured yellow and blue boat. In the background, there are trees and a building, with a clear blue sky and mountains visible in the distance.
A historical crane beside a river, with a clear blue sky and greenery in the background.
A scenic view of a river with several boats docked along the shore, surrounded by green trees and mountains in the background under a blue sky.
A scenic view of a body of water surrounded by distant mountains and a clear blue sky, with patches of vegetation and water reflecting the sunlight.

But the boat trip itself was lovely

A view from the front of a green boat on a calm river, showing lush greenery on either side and a bright blue sky with clouds.
A tranquil landscape featuring a blue sky with wispy clouds, a grassy area with scattered trees, and a distant mountain range.
Scenic view of a lake surrounded by greenery and mountains under a clear blue sky.

We slipped out of the harbour and onto the lake surrounded by spectacular views

A scenic view of a tranquil lake with grassland in the foreground and snow-capped mountains in the background under a clear blue sky.
A scenic landscape featuring snow-capped mountains in the background, rolling hills in the midground, and a calm body of water in the foreground, with patches of greenery and clouds in a blue sky.
A serene landscape featuring a mountain in the background, surrounded by lush green trees along the water's edge. The water reflects the vibrant colours, while cloudy skies add to the tranquil atmosphere.

With the mountains in the background it looked gorgeous

A panoramic view of snow-capped mountains under a blue sky with scattered clouds, framed by a calm lake and a line of greenery in the foreground.
A scenic view of historical ruins beside a calm lake, with mountains in the background under a clear blue sky.

Lake Skadar is famous for its water lilies covering every inch of the surface but in early April they were only just starting to show themselves

A serene water landscape featuring lily pads floating on the surface, with tall reeds in the background against a rocky hill.

There were plenty of birds everywhere we looked

A black bird swimming in clear water, featuring a long neck and partially outstretched wings.
A black cormorant perched on a branch over rocky terrain.
A variety of birds perched on a wooden branch extending over a calm lake, surrounded by lush greenery and tall reeds in the background.
A black-crowned night heron partially hidden among branches and foliage.
A black-crowned night heron perched on a branch among bare twigs, showcasing its distinctive grey and black plumage.
A Great Crested Grebe swimming on a calm water surface, surrounded by tall reeds.
A grey heron standing on a log in a calm waterway, surrounded by bare tree branches and twigs.
Two male mallard ducks swimming on a calm green pond.
A bird perched on a rock by the water, showcasing a sleek black plumage and a distinctive silhouette.
A white heron standing among dry twigs and stones in a natural setting.
A white heron standing among dry grasses and rocks, with its wings partially raised.
A white heron standing among dry reeds by a rocky shoreline, with its wings partially spread.

But no hippos or crocs, we might have been on the wrong continent!

One of the main attractions here are the pelicans and towards the end of the trip we were thrilled to see a small squadron of them flying overhead

A pelican flying over snowy mountains under a cloudy sky.
Two large birds flying against a cloudy sky.
Two pelicans soaring in the sky, with one in the foreground and another slightly behind, against a backdrop of grey clouds.
Two birds flying against a backdrop of snow-capped mountains and a partly cloudy sky.
A bird soaring gracefully in the sky with outstretched wings against a blue background with wispy clouds.
A pelican soaring gracefully in a clear blue sky with wispy clouds.
A pelican soaring gracefully in the sky against a backdrop of blue and wispy clouds.
A serene view of calm water with mountain peaks in the background under a blue sky with scattered clouds.

Feeling now as though we had done justice to the Balkan’s largest lake, we headed for the coast and the fishing village of Petrovac. We headed up into the hills again giving us a beautiful view back over the lake

Panoramic view of a mountainous landscape with snow-capped peaks, a large water body, and fluffy clouds in a blue sky.

Passing through the lush, green mountains

Panoramic view of mountainous landscape with winding road and lush green hills under a partly cloudy sky.

And finally catching our first sight of the sea for many months

A panoramic view of a coastal landscape featuring mountains, a sweeping shoreline, and a clear blue sea under a partly cloudy sky.

Petrovac is said to be a ‘cosy fishing village with beautiful beaches and a relaxed atmosphere’. It is also said to be ‘full of traffic with dirty beaches and high numbers of tourists’. Which is true?

Well, like most places in Montenegro, the answer is both – depending on when you go. It had started to become apparent that this country is a real Jekyll and Hyde – quiet, almost desolate for 9 months of the year then for the summer months it’s packed full of tourists and almost unbearable.

We were beginning to feel very relieved that we were here in April, especially when we found the only place to park was a small and busy car park which we had to crow bar BigMog into. We couldn’t imagine having any luck here in the summer season.

But once we were parked up and walked to the beach we were pleased

View of a beach with calm blue waters, featuring a rocky hill covered in greenery and several buildings along the shore under a clear blue sky.
A serene seascape featuring a calm blue ocean under a clear sky with scattered clouds, and a small island visible in the distance.

There were enough places open not to feel like a ghost town

A scenic view of a stone-paved square surrounded by traditional stone buildings with white shutters, featuring outdoor seating areas and trees under a clear blue sky.

And just enough other visitors to have some atmosphere

People seated at outdoor tables by the seaside, enjoying views of the water and a distant rocky island under a clear blue sky.
A scenic seaside promenade with a stone path, shaded by lush trees. A person sits on a bench, enjoying the view of the calm sea and distant hills under a clear blue sky.

Plus the weather was on our side for once.

It was definitely a tourist resort but it had a nice feel about it

A coastal stone fortress situated on rocky terrain, overlooking the sea, with a tall metal pole and several flags against a backdrop of hills and a blue sky.

By the time we got back to BigMog the car park had quietened down a bit and we were able to manoeuvre into a more level spot for the night.

We spent the next morning exploring more of the coast line on foot. We started by wandering through a lovely little olive grove to the Rimski Roman mosaics which were closed but we managed to peer in through the windows

A man walking along a path surrounded by olive trees under a clear blue sky, with buildings visible in the background.
An archaeological site featuring an exposed mosaic floor enclosed within a glass structure, surrounded by greenery.
A sign displaying information about an ancient Roman mosaic, dating from the 3rd to 4th century, with inscriptions in both Croatian and English.

We then set off for the Red Cave along a high coastal pathway

A man sitting on a stone wall beside a paved pathway surrounded by trees on a sunny day.
View of a serene coastal landscape featuring a calm sea, distant mountains, and small rocky islands under a clear blue sky.

The views were stunning and the weather was unbelievable

A scenic view of a coastal structure on a rocky outcrop surrounded by clear turquoise water, with trees framing the image and distant hills in the background.
A scenic view of a coastline with a sandy beach, framed by green trees and backed by mountains. The shoreline features a small town with buildings along the beach, under a clear blue sky.
A serene coastal view featuring calm blue waters, distant rocky islands, and tall trees framing the scene under a clear sky.
A close-up view of a rocky coastal area, with clear turquoise water reflecting sunlight, framed by a tree branch extending over the shore.

The cave itself was actually a tunnel, roughly hewn out of the rocks to allow access through the headland

A person walking through a rocky tunnel with uneven walls, illuminated by overhead lights.
A person standing in a cave-like opening, looking out at the ocean and sky.
A dimly lit tunnel with rocky walls, featuring a smooth pathway and faintly glowing lights along the sides.

Along the way were windows carved out overlooking some of the pretty little coves

A tranquil coastal scene featuring clear turquoise waters, rocky cliffs, and a small pebble beach.

We eventually made it out of the tunnel and onto Perazica beach

Scenic view of a rocky beach with clear blue water, surrounded by a lush green hillside and distant mountains under a bright blue sky.

It was dominated by an old hotel that appeared to have been left half built

Construction site of a large building next to a rocky coastline, with a crane in the foreground and a mountain in the background under a clear blue sky.

And from the state of the machinery left behind it looked as though it had been abandoned for a very long time

Rusty mechanical claws used for construction, positioned in front of an abandoned building with graffiti on its concrete walls.

On the way back to Petrovac we luxuriated on a bench soaking up the sun and I actually felt my face getting sunburnt, it was a strange thing after so much winter.

We climbed up to the little fort on Petrovac beach, looking out over the pretty town

Scenic view of rocky coastline with lush trees, clear turquoise water, and a quaint seaside village featuring traditional houses and outdoor seating.
A coastal view showing a restaurant built on rocky cliffs, overlooking turquoise waters with a backdrop of hills and a town with residential buildings.

And had a stroll along the harbour

A scenic harbour with clear turquoise water, featuring several small boats docked at the pier. Stone buildings with orange roofs line the waterfront, while individuals work nearby. Green hills rise in the background, creating a picturesque coastal scene.
A small white boat docked in clear water, showcasing the rocky seabed beneath it.

It was all very relaxing but we couldn’t help but think just how different this whole place would be in just three month’s time.

We didn’t want to stray too far from Podgorica over the next few days as we were waiting for our parts to arrive at Mercedes so we decided to head south towards the Albanian border and see the coastal towns down there before retracing our steps back up north.

That meant our next destination was to be the town of Bar. It was only 20km away but the options for parking up overnight were limited so we decided to stop just outside Bar itself on a patch of gravel in Sutomore which becomes an expensive car park in the season but was deserted in April.

We weren’t sure at first, Sutomore is not the most salubrious of towns and our patch of gravel seemed a bit exposed. But it turned out to be so ideal that we returned to it three times over the next few days

A man sitting outside a custom camper vehicle in a scenic mountainous area, with green trees and buildings in the background.

As we settled in, James spotted what looked like an old ruin on top of the hill above us so we decided to go and explore.

The path up was overgrown and slippery but when we finally got to the top the effort was well worth it

Ruins of ancient stone buildings surrounded by greenery, with a mountain and blue sky in the background.
A panoramic view of ancient stone ruins set against a backdrop of rolling mountains and a small town visible in the valley.
A panoramic view of a coastal town surrounded by mountains, with clear blue waters in the foreground and a partly cloudy sky.
Panoramic view of a coastline with mountains in the background, featuring calm blue waters and scattered clouds in the sky.

The ruin turned out to be an old Ottoman fortress which has been broadly left to its own devices and was all the more interesting for that

Ruins of an ancient stone structure set against a backdrop of mountains and a residential area under a clear blue sky.

Looking out over Sutomore itself, however, reminded us a bit of Benidorm!

A person stands on a rocky ledge overlooking a town with modern buildings and terracotta-roofed houses, set against a backdrop of mountains under a partly cloudy sky.
A person walking among ancient ruins, with a large tree in the foreground and mountains in the background.

We made it to Bar the next morning and spent a couple of hours doing chores before driving up to the main attraction – Bar Old Town. This fortified town was built somewhere between the 6th and 10th centuries AD but was destroyed by the Ottomans in 1877 and again by an earthquake in 1979. It is slowly being restored and was quite lovely

Scenic view of a mountainous landscape featuring ruins and a clock tower, with trees and village structures in the foreground.
Historic stone buildings and ruins with a tall, narrow spire in the background, set against a mountainous landscape under a cloudy sky.
Historical stone structures and ruins in a scenic landscape, featuring a building with a red-tiled roof and a nearby tower against a mountainous backdrop.
A scenic view of ancient stone ruins on a hillside, surrounded by greenery and residential buildings in the background.
Historic stone building with a distinctive rooftop, adjacent to a bell tower, surrounded by a rocky pathway and greenery.

Including the impressive Roman aqueduct

A scenic view of a stone aqueduct with multiple arches, surrounded by green hills and mountains, and residential buildings in the foreground.

We poked around the alleyways and peered out of the casement windows

Interior of a stone-walled underground chamber featuring a wooden staircase and an arched doorway.
A person bent over inside a cave-like structure, examining the ground, with bright light visible at the exit.
A view of a cobblestone street lined with outdoor dining areas at a quaint restaurant, featuring tables and chairs surrounded by potted olive trees. Traditional flags hang above, and buildings with rustic architecture are visible in the background.
View of overgrown ruins surrounded by lush greenery, with mountains in the background.

There was so much to see and some beautiful views

Ruins of a stone wall on a hillside surrounded by greenery and mountains under a cloudy sky.
A view of ancient stone walls with a bell tower in the background, surrounded by greenery and blue skies.
Ruins of an ancient stone structure surrounded by greenery, with people walking along stone pathways.
View of ancient ruins with stone structures and remains, surrounded by greenery and trees under a cloudy sky.
An interior view of a stone room displaying various archaeological fragments on metal shelves, including columns, capitals, and decorative elements against a rough stone wall.

We returned to our gravel patch and spent the night rocking wildly as gales battered the truck and rain lashed down around us. The weather was still grim the next morning which did nothing for our moods as we headed back to Bar to collect our laundry and found that the nearest place we could park was a 1.5km walk away in the pouring rain.

James wasn’t feeling well so he took the laundry back to the truck whilst I went to check out the Palace of King Nikola and see whether Google was right that it was closed

A grand yellow mansion with multiple large windows, featuring a symmetrical façade and a decorative roof, set in a landscaped area.

It was. The signs promised that the construction works would be finished in December 2025 but there was no sign of it opening any time soon.

On the way to the laundrette we had also spotted the Church of St John Vladimir which seemed very impressive for something that had not come up in any of my research. So after the disappointment of the palace I went back to have a closer look

A grand church with golden domes and bell towers, set against a cloudy sky, surrounded by green foliage.
A large, modern church with golden domes and two bell towers, set against a cloudy sky and mountains in the background.
Interior view of a beautifully decorated church featuring ornate frescoes on walls and ceiling, with a large chandelier hanging in the central area.

Apparently it had only been completed in 2016 so maybe not yet on the official tourist trail.

We were pleased to find a drier day greeting us the next morning and headed back to Bar to visit an olive tree that is over 2,000 years old

A large, ancient olive tree with a thick trunk and sprawling branches, surrounded by a circular stone boundary. In the background, there are rolling hills and cloudy skies.
Age certificate for monumental olive trees in Montenegro, detailing tree code, location, city, owner, and estimated age of 2240 years.

I dutifully walked around it three times as the sign told me to

A sign detailing the Old Olive Tree (Olea europaea L.) in Mirovici, highlighting its historical and cultural significance, dimensions, and local customs associated with it.

But James was not convinced

An ancient olive tree surrounded by a circular arrangement of stone benches, with a visitor standing nearby, against a cloudy sky.

Ulcinj was our next stop, right on the border with Albania. We drove through beautiful olive groves up into the hills

A winding road surrounded by olive trees on both sides, with a stone wall and lush green grass in the background under a cloudy sky.

And chose a parking spot high above the town to avoid having to negotiate our way through the tiny roads in the centre. It was a long hike down but we had great views over the old town fortress

A historic stone fortress overlooking the sea, surrounded by greenery and olive trees.

This is apparently the oldest settlement along the Adriatic coast, dating from the 5th century BC

A view of ancient stone ruins with a grassy area, featuring a flag in the background and remnants of walls and archways.
An interior view of a stone storage room featuring a pile of round rocks in the foreground and shelves filled with various stone slabs and artefacts along the walls.
Exterior view of a stone structure with arches and metal grilles, featuring lanterns and a stone pathway.

Much of it was in remarkable condition

A stone building with multiple windows and a sloped roof, surrounded by greenery and a stone pathway.
A view of a stone building with a red-tiled roof and a tall chimney, surrounded by other stone structures and greenery, set against a cloudy sky.
A person walking through an exhibition space showcasing various historical agricultural and crafting tools, displayed in glass cases and on wooden platforms.
Historic stone buildings with red tiled roofs overlooking the sea, with a sign indicating a hotel nearby.
A man sitting thoughtfully on a stone bench, dressed in outdoor clothing, in a bright, minimalist room with wooden flooring and large windows.

Although the views from the top made the rest of Ulcinj look decided shabby

A panoramic view of a coastal town with beach, sea and hilly landscape, featuring buildings, trees and cloudy skies.
A panoramic view of a hillside town featuring residential buildings with red roofs, a church in the foreground surrounded by olive trees, and a cemetery in the lower part of the image.

We were not finding this part of the Montenegrin coastline to be particularly beautiful, in fact the further south we went the more run down the whole place felt.

We tried to find somewhere for lunch in the old town but as it is just a tourist attraction everything was closed. In fact, not just closed but a construction site and full of rubbish. We peered down the cliffs towards the sea to find people had tipped old fridges, furniture and all sorts down there. Why would you do that?

Scenic view of rocky cliffs leading to the sea, with an old coastal fortification in the background.
Historic stone buildings perched on a rocky cliff, surrounded by greenery and overlooking the landscape, under a cloudy sky.
View of a seaside town with historical stone buildings on a hillside, overlooking the water, under a cloudy sky.

We eventually found somewhere to eat along the main beach and the food was surprisingly good but Ulcinj didn’t feel like a great place to stay. So we hiked back up the steep hill to retrieve BigMog and drove to Long Beach a little further down the coast.

It was desolate

A wide sandy beach under a clear blue sky, with gentle waves lapping at the shore and a distant view of hills and buildings in the background.

And still full of rubbish everywhere we looked

A red off-road vehicle with a white camper shell parked in a forested area, surrounded by trees and a blue sky with clouds.

But it was quiet and peaceful with no-one else around so we settled in happily for the night.

As we woke up the next morning all we could hear were birds and waves and even the sun had decided to come out. So we decided to stay put and enjoy some downtown with James doing maintenance on the Mog whilst I worked on our year end accounts. We both even got a little sunburn which we didn’t mind one bit.

Montenegro is so famous for its coastline that we had been a bit disappointed so far. We hoped it would improve further north so after our day off we turned round and headed back the way we had come, through Bar and onwards to the viewpoint for Sveti Stefan – the most famous view of Montenegro

A panoramic view of a coastal island with cluster of buildings surrounded by clear blue water and a beach, under a bright sky.

Our thermostat hit 21 degrees and everything looked better in the sun

A scenic view of a coastal landscape featuring a calm blue sea, lush greenery, and mountains under a partly cloudy sky. Residential buildings are visible along the shoreline.

Although the viewpoint itself was obviously very popular!

A parking sign featuring a 'no parking' symbol, indicating a 10-minute stopping limit, with additional text in a foreign language.

We arrived at Budva early in the afternoon and again decided to park up in the hills overlooking the town to keep BigMog out of trouble. It was a very steep hike through the trees to reach the sea

Scenic beach view with sandy shore, clear blue water, rocky foreground, and lush green hills in the background.

We padded along the pebbles past the few sunbathers braving the April weather and had to wobble across a makeshift wooden bridge before reaching the main beach

A scenic view of a coastal town with terracotta-roofed buildings, a stone fortress, and mountains in the background under a clear blue sky.
A picturesque beach scene with people enjoying the sun, featuring historic stone buildings with a church steeple in the background, mountains visible under a blue sky with scattered clouds.

We realised straight away that Budva was a completely different proposition to Sutomore, Bar and Ulcinj

Historic stone city wall with a restaurant area in the foreground, set against a mountainous backdrop and blue sky.
A scenic view of a marina with several yachts docked, surrounded by modern buildings and mountains under a partly cloudy sky.

It was very pretty

A panoramic view of a rocky coastline with two islands in the sea, backed by mountains and a clear blue sky.

And there were suddenly a lot of tourists around – helped by the lovely weather and the fact it was the week-end

Outdoor café with seating under large umbrellas near a historic stone wall, with people walking by and a clear blue sky.

We started to feel as though we were on holiday again and James even had an ice cream

A coastal view featuring a sculpture of a dancer on a rock, with a historic town in the background, surrounded by mountains and clear blue water.

Like many of the places along the coast, Budva also has an old fortified town

A stone church with a tall spire, featuring Gothic-style windows, set against a blue sky with scattered clouds.

Although this one was very different from the others as it was still inhabited and full of tourist shops, bars and restaurants

Scenic view of a coastal area with guests seated at outdoor tables, overlooking a tranquil blue sea and mountains in the background.
A cobblestone pathway lined with potted plants and statues under a trellised canopy of vines, leading to doorways with wooden shutters.

We wanted to get onto the ramparts to look out over the sea but couldn’t find any way up. Eventually we came across a tourist information office who told us we had to buy a ticket into the citadel in order to get onto the walls.

So off we went. The tickets were only 6 Euros and we happily wandered around the fortress

A view of a stone castle wall adorned with red banners, overlooking a lake with mountains in the background and a partly cloudy sky.

We found the old church

Ruins of a stone fortress with a Turkish flag fluttering, overlooking a green hill and modern buildings in the background under a partly cloudy sky.

The library

A man sitting in a leather armchair in a library with stone walls, surrounded by bookshelves filled with books, and a bust of a historical figure on the wall.
An interior view of a stone-walled hall featuring wooden beams, with banners hanging from the ceiling and framed pictures on the walls. Large windows provide natural light.

And some spectacular views

A panoramic view of a coastal town with red-tiled roofs, a steeple, and palm trees, set against mountains and a blue sky with clouds.
View of a coastal landscape featuring a historical stone building with a red roof, an open plaza, and a rocky island in the distance, surrounded by water and mountains.
A person walking along a stone pathway with a view of the sea and a small island in the background, surrounded by mountains.

Blue sky and sunshine always makes the world a better place

Silhouette of a dancer striking a pose on a rocky outcrop by the sea, with a clear blue sky in the background.

As we walked back across the wooden bridge with the waves breaking around us and clambered up to BigMog through the trees, I was suddenly transported back to exciting family holidays in Sidmouth with waves crashing over the rocks and the ‘daredevil steps’ that became impassible at high tide.

We weren’t sure whether we were allowed to stay the night in our car park and it wasn’t very level so we left the town heading further north until we found a spot high in the mountains overlooking a quarry

A rugged off-road vehicle parked on a mountainous terrain under a clear blue sky, featuring a unique lion graphic on its side.
A panoramic view of rolling green hills and mountains under a clear blue sky.

We were 770m up here so it was cool and fresh, although we felt the need to put rocks under the Mogs wheels – neither of us fancied finding ourselves rolling backwards towards that drop in the middle of the night.

We woke up to a pile of chocolate – it was Easter day! It was also 8 degrees up there which was very disappointing until we realised that only two weeks ago we would have felt very lucky to be that warm.

We didn’t want to go much further north as we would be going too far away from Podgorica and our CTIS parts had not yet come in. So instead we headed inland to Lipa Cave.

We had seen a lot of caves on our travels but, despite my claustrophobia or maybe because of it, they never lose their thrill.

Lipa Cave was no exception. It was very expensive but they did include a train ride from the car park

A green tourist train parked on a road, consisting of multiple carriages, set against a backdrop of rocky hills and greenery under a clear blue sky.

And the guide made it not just a lovely experience but also a very educational one – he was the first person to tell us that stalactites are hollow, who knew?? When I showed an interest in this fact he took us to one of the larger ones and pointed out the hole through the middle

A close-up view of a limestone cave interior featuring stalactites hanging from the ceiling and a variety of rock formations on the walls, illuminated by soft, warm lighting.

The caves were beautiful with all the stalactites and stalagmites

A stunning cave interior featuring stalactites and stalagmites, illuminated by soft lighting, showcasing intricate rock formations and textures.
Interior of a large cave featuring stalactites hanging from the ceiling and stalagmites on the ground, with artificial lighting illuminating the rock formations.
Interior view of a large cave with stalactites and stalagmites, illuminated by soft lighting
A large underground cave with stalactites and stalagmites, featuring an illuminated rocky structure and smooth floor.
An interior view of a cave featuring tall stalagmites and stalactites, illuminated by soft lighting, showcasing the geological formations and textures of the cave walls.
A dark underground cave with stalactites hanging from the ceiling, illuminated by soft lighting, revealing textured rock formations and a clear pathway.
Interior of a cave featuring stalagmites and stalactites with illuminated sections.
An illuminated cave interior featuring stalactites and stalagmites, showcasing the intricate rock formations on the walls and ceiling.

One formation looked just like a waterfall

A stone basin with a clear water pool surrounded by a circular stone edge, set within a cave featuring large stalactites and textured rock formations.

And these mini stalagmites were growing up from the ripples in the ground water

An underground cave with a wet, reflective surface and various rock formations, including stalactites and stalagmites.

Back at the ticket office, we stopped for a few minutes to admire the views

Outdoor terrace with metal frames and chairs, overlooking mountains and clear blue sky.
A panoramic view of rolling hills and mountains under a clear blue sky, showcasing a rural landscape with scattered villages and farmland.

Lipa Cave marked the start of the best few days that we spent in Montenegro. The cave was just outside Cetinje, the historical capital city and a town full of art, history and culture. We spent two days there soaking it all in and enjoying the calm atmosphere and wide open avenues

A pink two-storey house with a flat roof and white accents, surrounded by tall trees and green hedges, set against a clear blue sky.
A bronze statue of a woman holding a sword aloft, mounted on a tall stone pedestal, set against a clear blue sky with trees in the background.
Front entrance of a historic building featuring two statues, a staircase with red carpet, and decorative stone architecture.
A light-coloured, three-storey building with a balcony, featuring decorative stonework and statues at the front, set against a clear blue sky.
A bronze statue of a woman sitting on a bench, wearing a wide-brimmed hat and holding a book, set in a park-like environment with trees and buildings in the background.
A statue of a historical figure in a green robe, holding a lyre, situated in a park surrounded by trimmed bushes and trees, with a blue sky in the background.

Many of the historical monuments and palaces line Njegoseva Street where we found the Blue Palace – official residence of the President

A grand, neoclassical building with ornate architecture, featuring pink columns and large windows, surrounded by greenery and a fence, under a clear blue sky.
A bronze plaque displaying the words 'CRNA GORA' and 'PREDSJEDNIK', indicating the President of Montenegro, set against a background of greenery and a building.

It was at this point that I decided to find out what Crna Gora meant as we had seen it all over the country. Google Translate came back with ‘Montenegro’ :

Crna = black = negro

Gora = mountain = monte

I guess I should have been able to work that one out!

The Vlaska church was closed but we had heard that is often the case

A small stone church surrounded by tall trees and green grass under a clear blue sky.

We then found the French Embassy, said to be one of the most beautiful buildings in the town and it did not disappoint

A historic two-storey building with a tiled roof, featuring large windows and a balcony. The exterior is adorned with decorative tiles and is surrounded by a wrought iron fence. A red flag is displayed prominently at the front.
A historic three-storey house with intricate stonework, large windows, and green shutters, set against a blue sky.

Apparently it was designed for Cairo but ended up in Montenegro due to a postal error.

Across the road was the Ministry of Culture

A grand historic building featuring classical architecture with tall columns and decorative stonework, set against a clear blue sky.

But it was Vujovica House which stole our hearts, we agreed this would be the one to buy

An old, dilapidated house with a red metal roof and a turret, surrounded by bare trees and a wrought iron gate.
An old, weathered two-storey house with a red-tiled roof, featuring a balcony and multiple windows, surrounded by bare trees and blue sky.

We found out from one of the locals that the house is still lived in, hard to believe looking at the state it was in.

The old Bank of Montenegro is now the fascinating Museum of Money

Facade of a historic bank building with stone architecture, displaying the name 'Crnogorska Banka' and decorative elements, set against a clear blue sky.

With an old coin stamp

An antique printing press displayed in a museum setting, featuring a large wheel and machinery, with a black and white photograph on the wall depicting an old factory environment.

And the vault still full of money

A large, open safe with a yellow door positioned in a room with wooden flooring. A white door is seen on the left, leading to the safe compartment.
A vintage interior featuring wooden shelves filled with stacks of banknotes, alongside a glass-fronted weighing scale and a secure storage box.

We got chatting to the guide in the museum who said that in Montenegro the Cetinje accent is considered the worst in the country. James had to sympathise with her – being a Brummy!

A display case featuring various banknotes and coins from a currency collection, arranged in rows with notable figures and landmarks depicted on the notes.
A display case containing various banknotes arranged on a red background, showcasing historical currency from different periods.

There were a lot of other lovely buildings and street art to admire

Sculpture of a humanoid form partially emerging from a textured surface, placed on a stone slab in a grassy area.
A wide pedestrian pathway lined with trimmed trees and street lamps, flanked by buildings on either side under a clear blue sky.
A large yellow building with a pitched roof and multiple windows, set against a clear blue sky. In the foreground, a bust statue and manicured grass area with trees are visible.
Two historical buildings set against a backdrop of green trees under a clear blue sky.
A historic building with a decorative façade, featuring large windows and a clock at the top. The entrance has a balcony with a red flag, framed by trees against a clear blue sky.

Including Castle Church, which was also disappointingly closed

A stone church surrounded by trees and greenery on a clear blue sky day, with historical ruins in the foreground.
A small stone church with a bell tower, surrounded by trees and greenery, featuring a stairway leading to its entrance.

King Nicola’s Palace was open though, the seat of the royal family for 50 years during the reign of Montenegro’s first and only King

A large red building with white windows and a decorative balcony, set against a clear blue sky.

Inside were all sorts of artifacts belonging to the royals

Interior of a museum room displaying historical weapons and artifacts, including swords and firearms, with a glass display case at the centre and framed portraits on the walls.
Interior of a museum room featuring decorative curtains, a display of jewellery on the wall, a wooden table, and a glass case with artifacts, along with a large painting of a woman in an elegant gown.
Display of traditional garments in a glass case, featuring ornate dresses and accessories, showcasing cultural attire.
A display case showcasing various historical military uniforms and hats, featuring intricate designs and decorations, set against a wooden background.
A decorative horn featuring a detailed figure of a soldier, resting on an ornate base. The background includes a patterned wallpaper.

And the furniture was apparently original

A traditional room featuring ornate wooden furniture, including two chairs, a table, and decorative stools, with intricate carvings. The floor is made of parquet, and there is a patterned rug. The walls are adorned with light-coloured wallpaper and a framed painting, while heavy curtains drape beside a window.
A lavish dining room featuring a large wooden table surrounded by chairs, a glass display cabinet filled with silverware, an ornate chandelier, and rich yellow walls.
An elegantly furnished room featuring ornate golden-framed portraits on the walls, vintage upholstered chairs arranged around a decorative table, and an elaborate chandelier overhead.
A vintage bedroom featuring an ornate black wooden bed with a blue and white patterned coverlet, a matching bedside table, a tall wardrobe, and two elegant chairs. There are sheer curtains covering the window, and a decorative rug on the floor.

The crown jewels were supposed to be there somewhere but we didn’t find them.

The next stop was the Njegos Museum, otherwise known as Billiard House. This was the residence of the 19th century Prince-Bishop and poet Petar II Petrović Njegoš, considered one of the greatest Slavik authors and still highly regarded in Monenegro

An interior view of a historical room featuring a large wooden table with a glass top, two balls, and a wooden rod. Behind the table is a decorative chair and two paintings on the walls, one of a seated man in historical attire and the other of a similarly dressed figure. The room has cream-coloured curtains and wooden flooring.
A stone building with wooden shutters and a grey metal roof, surrounded by grass and trees under a clear blue sky.

The information boards were all in Montenegrin and we didn’t know enough of the history so whilst it was interesting to wander around the historic house we didn’t learn very much.

There was a large topographical map of Montenegro in the grounds though which was very impressive

A large topographical relief model depicting a mountainous landscape with a blue lake, viewed from above with a person walking in the background.

We wandered around the edge peering down trying to work out where we had been and where we were going – paying particular attention to how high places were so we could gauge how cold they were likely to be

A large, textured topographical model resembling mountains, displayed indoors with natural light illuminating the features.

Our final visit here in Cetinje was the iconic Cetinje Monastery

A scenic view of a stone monastery complex set against a blue sky, surrounded by trees. The structure features a bell tower and arched walkways, with a pathway leading to it.
A view of a stone building featuring arched walkways and a bell tower against a clear blue sky.

We had been looking forward to this as it was supposed to contain numerous religious relics of huge importance as well as beautiful icons and royal valuables – including the crown of the Serbian King Stefan Uroš III Dečanski whose tomb we had seen some weeks ago

A stone building surrounded by trees and greenery, featuring a paved pathway and lampposts in a sunny outdoor setting.
A scenic view of a stone monastery surrounded by greenery under a clear blue sky, featuring a bell tower and multiple buildings with contrasting roofs.
A view of a stone building with a tower set against a clear blue sky, flanked by bare trees and a parked car in the foreground.

But we found none of this. I found out later that it is all held in a separate treasury which you can pay to visit but we saw no signs for it.

That afternoon we had a message from Mercedes – our parts were due to arrive in two days’ time.

Almost perfect timing. We wanted to visit Lovcen National Park which was in the opposite direction to Podgorica but to carry on from Lovcen to the northern coast we would either need to drive the Kotor Serpentine Road or backtrack past Cetinje almost to Podgorica and down to the coast. With our clutch and gearbox in a sorry and worsening state, we didn’t want to risk the steep and windy Serpentine Road so would have to double back. That made a visit to Lovcen the perfect way to spend the next two days before heading back to the capital city to collect our parts.

The drive to Lovcen was beautiful, we were really seeing the best of the country now

A panoramic view of mountains under a clear blue sky, featuring rocky terrain and sparse vegetation. In the distance, rolling hills can be seen, with some peaks still covered in snow.
A panoramic view of two snow-capped mountains against a clear blue sky, with a foreground of bare trees and rocky terrain.
A red off-road vehicle parked on a rocky terrain, featuring a custom camper unit with a lion graphic on its side, set against a clear blue sky and mountainous landscape.

When we arrived we pulled in by the visitor centre and had a walk through the trees to the small museum

A scenic view of a deciduous forest in early spring, featuring bare trees and a carpet of fallen leaves. In the foreground, there are logs stacked on the ground and hints of purple flowers peeking through the earth.
An abandoned stone house surrounded by leafless trees and a forest floor covered in fallen leaves.

There were statues of the Petrović-Njegoš ruling family outside

A peaceful outdoor area featuring several statues, bare trees, and a quaint house with a red roof in the background.
A bronze statue of King Nikola I, 1841-1921, surrounded by trees in a park setting, with another bust visible in the background.

But we didn’t find the spectacular views we had hoped for so we jumped back in the truck and drove up to the Njegos mausoleum where Petar II Petrović Njegoš is entombed.

As we drove up I felt myself taking deep breaths, filling my lungs with the fresh air, and I started to feel lighter as the beauty of the mountains unfolded all around us

View from inside a vehicle overlooking a mountainous landscape with rocky terrain and distant peaks under a clear blue sky.
A red overland vehicle with a lion illustration on its side, parked on a rocky hilltop overlooking a mountainous landscape under a blue sky with scattered clouds.

For all that towns and cities can be fascinating, full of culture and history, I am never happier than in the middle of nowhere surrounded by nothing but the natural world in all its majesty

Scenic panoramic view of mountain hills with rocky outcrops under a clear blue sky.

As we climbed, snow started to appear along the roadside until we found ourselves driving between snow drifts on either side

A snow-covered road flanked by tall snowbanks and bare trees, with rocky hills visible in the background under a clear blue sky.

We decided to carry on past the lower car park as it looked quite full and pressed on round a tight switchback to the upper car park.

Bit of a mistake! The car park was very small and there was nowhere to turn around. On the positive side, there was one space empty that BigMog fitted into perfectly. On the negative side we had no idea how we would get back out again

A red Mercedes truck parked on snow in front of a mountain with a clear blue sky.

A problem for later though, for now we were going to make the most of this spectacular place

A panoramic view of snow-capped mountains under a clear blue sky, highlighting a peak with a communications tower at the summit.

There were 461 steps up to the mausoleum, mostly inside a tunnel

Two people walking on a rocky path towards a mountain entrance under a clear blue sky.

We stopped after the first set of steps to look out over the tiny car park and try to work out how we were going to get BigMog out but nothing came to mind

A panoramic view from a mountain peak, showing a vast landscape of hills and valleys below, with a clear blue sky and some snow-capped mountains in the distance. In the foreground, there is a small building and parked cars.

So we carried on until we reached the top and it took our breath away

A panoramic view of a mountainous landscape with a mix of rocky terrain and patches of greenery. The sky is clear and blue, showcasing distant mountains and valleys.
A panoramic view of mountain ranges with snowy peaks and a clear blue sky, featuring a stone structure on the right and a winding path leading down the slope.
Panoramic view of snow-capped mountains and rolling hills under a clear blue sky, with a small town visible in the distance.
Scenic view from a mountain peak with a pathway and visitors, surrounded by rocky terrain and distant mountains under a clear blue sky.

The mausoleum itself was beautifully carved with sculptures outside

A stone structure featuring two large statues of figures standing by the entrance, with a clear blue sky above and some snow in the foreground.
A large black statue of a seated figure wearing a military-style uniform, with an eagle perched behind them, set in a minimalist stone hall.
View through an open door framed by large stone statues, revealing a snow-covered landscape and blue sky beyond the doorway.

And the tomb underneath in the cool, quiet crypt

An elegantly designed dimly lit room with curved stone walls and illuminated steps, creating a serene and tranquil atmosphere.
Close-up of a stone slab featuring an emblem and inscriptions, set in a minimalist interior.

Back up in the fresh air we stood on the viewing platform for a few minutes taking it all in

A stone building with a flat roof situated on a rocky mountain summit, surrounded by patches of snow, against a clear blue sky.

Before returning to the tiny car park to assess our options and realising that we had very few. More cars were coming up all the time and the road was now full of cars parked along the side making our escape route even harder.

So in the end we had no choice but to reverse out of the car park and all the way back down the snow-lined road, around the sharp switch back and back down to the lower car park

We got a few looks as James steered a 7.5 tonne truck backwards down a road most people were struggling to go up forwards!

We carried on into the heart of the national park and found an absolutely gorgeous place to park-up for the night

A red Mercedes off-road vehicle parked in a rocky landscape, surrounded by pine trees and mountains under a clear blue sky.
A rugged landscape with mountains in the background, featuring an open door of a truck and steps leading up to it, surrounded by rocky terrain and sparse vegetation under a clear blue sky.
A panoramic view of rugged mountains under a blue sky with scattered clouds, showcasing rocky terrain and a sparse forest in the foreground.
A red and white off-road vehicle parked in a rocky clearing surrounded by trees and mountains under a clear blue sky.

It was only early afternoon so we got our chairs out and sat outside with contented smiles on our faces until it was time for bed

A red Mercedes off-road vehicle parked in a forested area with tall trees and rocky ground, sunlight filtering through the branches.

We woke up to another fabulous day and I decided to make the most of it and go on a 10.5km walk around the Wolf Trail – a popular walking route up into the mountains.

James decided he would go out on his bike so I left him setting it up and strode off up the road to the start of my trail. I passed a sign warning people not to hike solo but figured I wasn’t going off piste and it was a well marked trail so I’d be fine.

The trail started off winding around a beautiful, remote village

A scenic landscape featuring rolling hills and rocky outcrops under a clear blue sky, with a small house in the distance and sparse vegetation.
A scenic view of two stone houses set against a backdrop of rolling hills and a clear blue sky, with sparse trees and rocky terrain.
A panoramic view of a picturesque village set against rolling hills and a clear blue sky, featuring various houses with red roofs and green fields.

Before heading uphill into the trees where I found a viewpoint looking out all the way to the sea

A rocky mountain summit overlooking a valley with scattered trees and clouds in the sky.
A panoramic view from a mountain top overlooking a lush green landscape, dotted with clouds and leading to a sparkling blue sea under a clear sky.

The second half of the walk took me through the forests

A winding dirt path through a forest of bare trees with patches of leaves on the ground under a clear blue sky.
A cluster of purple crocus flowers emerging through a bed of brown leaves.

Where I suddenly came up against a surprising barrier – snow

A snow-covered path winding through a forest of bare trees, with long shadows cast across the snow.

I slipped and slid over it wishing I had James’ steady hand to keep me upright

A snowy pathway through a forest with bare trees and a clear blue sky.

But it didn’t last long, eventually the path started going back down and I popped out near the road

A panoramic view of mountains under a clear blue sky, with rocky formations and sparse trees in the foreground.

I had only met a handful of people all morning, it had been blissfully peaceful and beautifully warm. By the time I got back to BigMog I was tired but happy.

James returned a few minutes later with a smile on his face having ridden up into the clouds

A red mountain bike resting on grassy terrain with rocky outcrops and a misty mountain backdrop under a blue sky.

That evening we cooked a Thai Green curry and I finally opened my special birthday wine that I had saved for seven months waiting for the perfect evening to enjoy it. Neither the wine nor the evening disappointed. We felt as though we had found a little piece of paradise

A red off-road truck parked in a mountainous landscape, featuring a detailed lion's face illustration on its side, with clear blue skies and rocky terrain in the background.
A panoramic view of rugged mountains under a clear blue sky, featuring a rocky landscape and patches of green grass, with scattered trees and boulders in the foreground.

As we left Lovcen the next morning we were very sad to be going. It had been a perfect couple of days. But we had UniMog parts to collect and there was plenty more of Montenegro beckoning us onwards and upwards. So we packed up, took one last look at the soaring mountains and turned up the road back towards Podgorica….

Jen Price

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