Warmth, Wine and the Road to Belgrade

Gradac Monastery was beautiful. Not just because it was a lovely old building with a long and intriguing history, but also because it was 19 degrees with blue skies and a warm sun shining down on us

Digital display from a Ruuvi sensor showing temperature, relative humidity, and dew point, with a BigMog vehicle in the background.
Screenshot

But we couldn’t stay forever so eventually we dragged ourselves off our bench and back to BigMog. We were heading for Studenica Monastery, reputed to be one of the most beautiful of all.

We were not disappointed, it was gorgeous

A historic stone church with a dome, surrounded by leafless trees and a clear blue sky.

It was also one of the largest we had seen with a ring of monastic buildings circling two churches

A peaceful landscape featuring a stone structure surrounded by grass, trees, and mountains in the background under a clear blue sky.
A stone chapel with a curved roof and arched windows, surrounded by green grass and trees, with a larger building in the background under a clear blue sky.
A stone church with a domed roof, set against a clear blue sky and surrounded by greenery.
Historic buildings with a stone tower and adjacent structures under a blue sky, surrounded by greenery and visitors sitting on a bench.
View of a historic stone building complex with a wooden bell tower, surrounded by visitors and bare trees against a clear blue sky.

The views were lovely

A scenic view of a mountainous landscape with lush greenery and a clear blue sky, featuring a stone wall in the foreground.
A picturesque scene featuring a stone wall and gate surrounded by neatly maintained green grass, trees, and distant hills under a clear blue sky.

The church itself was huge inside

Interior view of a stone church entrance with intricate carvings and a large archway, featuring a figure silhouetted in the doorway.
A detailed view of ancient frescoes on a church wall, featuring religious figures and scenes. The artwork includes numerous saints and biblical imagery, with a sense of historical significance.
Interior of an ancient church with ornate frescoes depicting religious scenes on the walls and a high arching ceiling.
An ancient stone basin in a marble-lined room, surrounded by stone remains and structures, with an arched doorway in the background.
A view of the interior wall of a church featuring religious frescoes depicting scenes from the New Testament, including the crucifixion of Jesus and images of saints, with ornate details and a window allowing light to enter.
Ceiling of a historic church featuring ancient frescoes, with religious figures and decorative elements, showcasing wear and partial damage.

With the tomb of one of Serbia’s greatest rulers – Stefan Nemanja who was buried here in 1206

An ancient stone tomb with a simple design, resting on a marble platform, accompanied by a candle holder and a small bouquet of flowers, set against a wall adorned with faded religious frescoes.
A silver embellished sarcophagus with intricate carvings and a golden circular emblem, placed on a draped table in a stone interior, with a candle holder and a small bouquet of flowers nearby.

It was late in the afternoon by the time we’d finished so we stayed overnight just outside the gates

A red Mercedes off-road vehicle parked on green grass with mountains in the background and a clear blue sky.
A historic stone fortress with a domed church visible in the background, surrounded by tall trees and a clear blue sky.
A person stands beside a row of gravestones against a stone wall, with a clear sky in the background.

The next day was Sunday and when we woke up we found ourselves surrounded by cars with people filing through the gates into the church

A scenic view of two traditional buildings surrounded by a parking lot filled with parked cars, set against a backdrop of a forested hillside under a clear blue sky.

I hurried through my training feeling a little self-conscious then went to take some more photos in the morning sunshine

Historic stone church set against a clear blue sky, featuring a distinct dome and arched doorways, surrounded by green grass and trees.
A historic stone church with decorative windows and a round tower, set against a clear blue sky, surrounded by visitors and greenery.

Our next stop was Maglic Fortress, a 13th century castle perched on top of a hill by the Ibar river

A hill with a castle ruins at the top, surrounded by bare trees and a body of water in the foreground, against a clear blue sky.

We had to cross the river by ferry to get to it, powered by the hands of volunteers

Three men boarding a flat-bottom boat on a river, surrounded by trees and hills.

The castle had been neglected for many years until this group bought the land at the foot of the hill and started cleaning the place up. The government paid them no attention so they carried on, repairing some of the walls and building a new path. The government then started taking credit for the improvements so the volunteers expanded their activities. It turned into a positive feedback loop where everyone was happy and the castle benefitted.

We chatted to the founder of the charity and he was fascinating. He told us that he used to want to leave Serbia but since travelling abroad he now appreciates just how good it is back home. He said that the Serbian people believe in self-sufficiency and if anyone tries to tie them down with taxes or oppression they just move further into the mountains where they can’t be controlled.

He also told us that he had tried to study for a PhD in Canada but, despite meeting all the criteria, he was refused a student visa. Similarly in America and the UK. He shrugged it off saying no-one likes Serbia and they just have to live with it. Maybe those people ought to come to Serbia, it might change their minds!

We walked up the steep, newly built path to the café run by the group

A wooden information board with maps and texts in Serbian, located in a green outdoor area. The board highlights various local attractions and activities. Beside it, there is a painted barrel labelled for donations.
A scenic outdoor seating area with wooden benches and tables, surrounded by nature and a wooden fence, overlooking a hillside with trees and a distant house.
A scenic view of a rural landscape featuring several rustic homes with red roofs, surrounded by bare trees and distant mountains under a clear blue sky.

And from there we hiked up to the castle itself

View of a medieval castle atop a hill, surrounded by bare trees and a clear blue sky.

It was huge

A scenic view of ancient stone castle ruins with a mountainous landscape in the background under a clear blue sky.
Ruins of a stone castle under a clear blue sky, with partially collapsed walls and grassy areas.

With far reaching views over the mountains and river

Aerial view of a rural landscape featuring a grassy field, a small cluster of houses with red roofs, and a winding road alongside a river, surrounded by bare hills and sparse trees.
A panoramic view of a winding river surrounded by steep, forested hills under a clear blue sky.

The team are clearly doing a fantastic job of looking after it

Aerial view of a medieval stone castle ruin perched on a hilltop, surrounded by lush mountains and a clear blue sky.
A view of ancient stone ruins atop a hill with mountains in the background under a clear blue sky.
A panoramic view of an ancient stone fortress perched on a hill, surrounded by rolling mountains and a clear blue sky.

We carried on down the other side of the hill and across a railway line

A person standing on a railway track, facing a mountainous landscape with sparse vegetation and trees. The individual is wearing a yellow shirt and has their hands on their hips, contemplating the scenery.
A scenic view of an old stone tunnel at the foot of a hill, with a small abandoned house nearby and railway tracks leading towards the tunnel. The landscape is semi-barren with sparse trees and a clear blue sky.

Until we reached a small waterfall

A small waterfall flowing into a calm pool surrounded by rocky terrain and sparse trees, set in a wooded area.

We actually got too hot walking back, something we hadn’t experienced for many months. So we treated ourselves to fresh apple juice back at the little café before saying our goodbyes and leaving the wonderful group of castle-saviours behind

View of a historic castle ruins atop a rocky hill, surrounded by bare trees and a clear blue sky.
A view of a historic castle situated atop a grassy hill under a clear blue sky, surrounded by sparse trees and rugged landscape.

After a very nice lunch at a local restaurant we were ready to set off for Zica Monastery. It was only 20km up the road and should have taken us less than half an hour. But we had a problem – milk.

The price of milk in Serbia had been going down and down until it got to the point where the farmers could no longer make a living. The farmers were angry and they were protesting. Roads were being blockaded all over the country – including the road through the town of Konarevo which stood between us and Zica.

Our friends at the castle had told us of a cut-through along back roads but there was a bridge in the way that was too narrow for BigMog to cross.

So instead of a 20km drive, we took a huge detour of 150km which would bring us to Zica from the opposite direction.

Fortunately the roads were lovely and we slowly meandered our way around, enjoying the views and not minding in the least that we were seeing more of Serbia and enjoying the countryside

A view of a dusty dirt road winding through a forest, captured from the perspective of a vehicle's dashboard.
Panoramic view of a rural landscape featuring rolling hills, scattered houses, and fields in various shades of green and brown, under a cloudy sky.

There are many things that stand out when you drive through Serbia’s rural areas. You see charcoal burning everywhere you go

A traditional brick and stone oven structure situated on a hillside, surrounded by sparse trees and dry vegetation.

As well as the ubiquitous bee hives – it seems as though almost every family has some and much larger communities are a common site across the region

A bee farm with multiple beehives in yellow and blue, set against a background of bare trees and clear blue sky.

We found a picnic spot about half way round that looked ideal to stay the night. We were over 1,000m up in the mountains now so the ground was covered in snow

A large overland vehicle parked amid tall evergreen trees, with patches of snow on the ground under a clear blue sky.

But it was still 17 degrees outside so it didn’t seem to matter that much – there may have been other things to worry about…

A wooden sign warning of a bear in the forest, located near a snowy area, with text in Serbian about hunting grounds and caution.

In the morning a group of park rangers arrived and got their breakfast out on the picnic benches. They invited us to join them so James went over for a chat and was force-fed bread, cheese and bacon.

We eventually made it to Zica at midday, but our detour had not brought us quite far enough through the town. We were stopped by the police and steered down some very narrow back streets to get around the last of the blockade.

When we finally arrived at the monastery we were relieved to find a huge and almost empty car park – a welcome site after such a long journey.

Zica is a large and very important monastery, founded by Saint Sava of whom we heard a great deal everywhere we went

A view of a historical monastery with red brick buildings and a prominent tower, set against a cloudy sky and surrounded by evergreen trees.
Exterior view of a brick church with a bell tower and a tiled roof, surrounded by arches and small trees in a courtyard.
Front view of a historic red brick building featuring arched windows and doors, with decorative elements and a landscaped area.

Serbian Kings were crowned here back in the 13th Century and it is a place of great pride to the people

A two-storey building featuring a combination of arched windows and wooden balconies, surrounded by bare trees and a grassy slope.
An ancient stone chapel with a decorative façade, featuring arches and columns, set against a mountainous backdrop.
A view of a landscaped garden featuring a domed, stone gazebo with a blue roof, surrounded by tall trees and buildings with a church tower in the background.
Historic bell tower with a wooden structure and tiled roof, surrounded by trees and a cemetery, under a cloudy sky.

It was indeed impressive

A view of a rustic building with a distinctive roof, surrounded by rolling hills and scattered houses in a rural landscape under an overcast sky.

With the church itself built out of beautiful pink brick

Historic brick church surrounded by trees and greenery, set against a cloudy sky.
A historic stone church with a large arched entrance and multiple domes, surrounded by tall trees and greenery.
A historic stone church with a dome and cross on top, surrounded by trees and grass, with additional buildings visible in the background.
A historic stone church with a rounded architecture, surrounded by trees and grass, under a cloudy sky.
Interior view of an ornate church featuring a high dome, intricate frescoes on the walls, and a prominent chandelier, with a person standing in the foreground.

But as with all monasteries, you can’t spend long looking around before you’ve done everything you’re allowed to do

A wooden shelf displaying various religious icons and paintings, alongside bottles of traditional drinks and other local products.
Exterior view of a small church featuring a red and stone façade with a tiled roof, arched entrances, and a central dome topped with a cross.

So eventually we headed off to find the Popina Memorial.

The old Yugoslavian state was into memorials in a big way. Tito had them built across the country commemorating various national heroes. They were beautiful, quirky or brutal but always impressive and always designed with subtle symbolism and deep, if often hidden, meaning. But after the collapse of Yugoslavia and the economic and social turmoil that followed, few of them were cared for and most of them disappeared from the collective mind.

Popina is one of the most extreme examples of this – designed by the acclaimed architect Bogdan Bogdanovic in the late 1970s to honour the soldiers of Uzice, it was intended as a 100m gunsight aimed into infinity and aligned with the sun symbolising life, death and sacrifice. It was a thoughtful and much-loved piece but is now forgotten, hidden in the hills outside a small village.

So hidden in fact that we couldn’t find it. We drove to where our sat nav said it was but saw nothing. There was nowhere to park and we ended up doing another tight u-turn to get back to the main road.

Frustrated by having to throw BigMog around the tiny roads, we gave up and headed for a nearby park-up place outside another monastery – not one we intended to go into, there are only so many monasteries you can see!

After a good night’s sleep, and some careful scouring of the satellite images on Google Maps, we tried again. This time we were successful. We pulled into a small layby and found a sign marking the start of the trail up to the memorial.

Our guide was waiting for us – the cutest little puppy dog you can imagine

A small black and brown puppy peering around a grey gravestone in a grassy area.

Dogs are a huge part of Serbian life, you can’t go anywhere without them being around. Most, like this one, appear to be feral but some are family pets allowed to roam free during the day. They hang around in small groups, generally looking happy and healthy, and all – without exception – gentle and friendly and keen for a fuzz behind the ears.

This one looked very skinny but had plenty of energy and was thrilled to see us. He walked us all the way up to the memorial and back down again as if it was his job. He wanted lots of fuss but once we were back at the truck he vanished before we could get our dog food out to feed him – no doubt onto the next tour!

It was a steep walk up to the memorial but it was worth it

A large, modern stone sculpture featuring an angular pyramid with a circular opening, alongside a circular arch, set in a grassy area with bare trees in the background.

Beautifully designed and executed

A view through circular stone arches showcasing a triangular monument against a cloudy sky, with a stark landscape in the background.
A large, abstract stone sculpture featuring angular and circular shapes, set against a cloudy sky.
A large, abstract concrete sculpture resembling a pointed arch with circular cutouts, set against a cloudy sky and grassy landscape.
A tall, triangular stone monument with a circular opening at its base, surrounded by trees and hills in the background.

And someone was obviously looking after it as the grass around it was recently mown

A stone monument with inscribed text and a large triangular structure in the background, surrounded by trees and grass.

Apparently the architect was never happier than when people played on his sculptures as he believed life was for having fun. So have fun we did

A person leaping through a large circular stone sculpture set in an outdoor landscape with trees in the background.
A person stands joyfully in a sculptural stone archway, with arms raised, set against a backdrop of concentric circular stone structures.

Our next stop was the second of Serbia’s spa towns – Vrnjacka Banja. This one has a very different character to Sokobanja. Apparently the elite of society have visited here since Roman times and it is still popular today. Not being into touristy places, we hadn’t expected much from it but it turned out to be very pretty

A modern sculpture resembling a figure in motion, made of curved metal rods, set on a circular base with a water feature, surrounded by greenery and residential buildings.

Our first find was the Orthodox Church

A yellow and white church building with multiple domes, surrounded by leafless trees and a paved pathway.
Interior view of an ornate church featuring intricate frescoes on the domed ceilings and walls, depicting various saints and biblical scenes.

Then the Bridge of Love where a young couple swore their love to each other over 100 years ago only for the man to go to war and fall in love with someone else. The woman died of heartbreak and couples now leave padlocks on the bridge to bind their love for eternity

A concrete bridge adorned with locks crosses a small stream, surrounded by leafless trees in a park setting.

There were a lot of padlocks

A bridge adorned with numerous love locks, overlooking a small stream lined with trees in a park setting.

The next quirky thing on the list was a statue of a bird

A large, whimsical statue of a bird wearing a hat, positioned in a park surrounded by trees. The bird has a cheeky expression and is perched on a pedestal. In the background, there are colourful balloons and other park elements.

This is Gocko the Sparrow who became the mascot of the town after it hosted the popular television game show Games Without Borders – we’ve obviously been missing out on something!

But for us the best part was simply how green it all was with a lovely park

A serene park scene featuring tall trees, neatly manicured hedges, and a statue amidst a cloudy sky.
A landscaped park featuring neatly trimmed hedges, ornamental bushes, and stone pathways, with benches and tall trees lining the area under a cloudy sky.
A large sculpture of two white hands cupping a bare tree, set in a green park with walking paths and conifer trees in the background.

And a wide public piazza with a fountain

A panoramic view of a spacious outdoor area lined with trees, featuring a small café and people walking. The scene is set against a backdrop of mountains under a cloudy sky.
A panoramic view from a wooden deck surrounded by trees, overlooking a park area with residential buildings in the background.
A scenic view of a hillside in Vrnjačka Banja, featuring a stone wall, greenery, and a small waterfall, with the name 'ВРЊАЧКА БАЊА' prominently displayed in white letters.

The thermal springs themselves were just modern buildings with a price list and a bookings schedule – although there were fountains in the foyer which were free to use but the water tasted of sulphur.

The old Roman baths were no longer in use

Exterior view of Fons Romanus, a historical site with a stone entrance and decorative iron gates, set in a park with manicured greenery and surrounding trees.

But the Japanese Garden was an unusual twist

A man walks along a stone path by a pond in a park with trees and a wooden structure in the background.
A wooden gazebo with a tiled roof situated in a forested area, surrounded by bare trees and a stone pathway, with a person standing nearby.

Including the bench with a very helpful stick man holding an umbrella over you

A man sitting on a black bench with a parasol in a park setting near a small pond, surrounded by bare trees and pathways.
A white stone sculpture resembling a stylised human figure, set on a stone base, surrounded by greenery in a park.
A carved stone sculpture featuring two circular designs, set on a grassy area with trees in the background.

We stopped for a lovely pizza at a nearby restaurant and then climbed to the top of the town to see the Belimarkovich Castle, sadly closed for construction

A partially renovated historic mansion with a yellow facade, featuring intricate architectural details, balconies, and a Serbian flag. Surrounding trees are bare, indicating early spring, with construction materials visible in the foreground.

We were heading north again and our next destination was to be the large town of Kragujavac. We drove yet more beautiful roads

A winding gravel road surrounded by bare trees and bushes, leading towards distant hills under a cloudy sky.

With fruit trees planted everywhere

A panoramic view of a vineyard with bare vines stretching across a grassy field, against a backdrop of rolling hills and a distant town under a clear blue sky.
A view of a vineyard featuring bare grapevines arranged in rows against a clear blue sky.

As well as thousands of vineyards – even small gardens had a few vines squeezed in, a good sign for us!

A rural landscape featuring a winding road alongside a vineyard, with a barren tree in the foreground and rolling hills in the background under a clear blue sky.
A view of a winding road beside a vineyard, with bare grapevines lining the hillside and rolling hills in the background under a cloudy sky.

It was also very noticeable just how many homes were very run down, some so dilapidated that you wonder how the people manage to live there

A rural landscape featuring a collection of houses with red and yellow rooftops, surrounded by bare trees and rolling hills under a clear blue sky.
Abandoned houses along a dirt road, with bare trees in the foreground and a clear blue sky.
A rural landscape featuring several houses, including a partially constructed building, surrounded by sparse trees and greenery under a clear blue sky.

It is a common site to see a large house under construction but seemingly abandoned, sometimes for what looks like years

A partially constructed brick house with a tiled roof, surrounded by trees and a few vehicles in a rural setting.

This one seemed quite new and may still have been actively worked on but most were not. We could only assume that people had had great plans but funds ran out as the economy nose-dived after the breakup of Yugoslavia.

And the litter problem just gets worse and worse wherever you go across the Balkans

Litter scattered on the ground beside a wooded area, with plastic bottles, bags, and other trash among fallen leaves and grass.

Enroute we found Kalenic monastery and decided to park-up for the night. I had a quick wander around the church – it was pretty, but the nuns weren’t very friendly so I didn’t stay long

Facade of a historic building featuring arched colonnades and a central dome, surrounded by a grassy courtyard under a cloudy sky.
A historic brick church with intricate architectural details, surrounded by greenery and a tree, set against a cloudy sky.
Interior view of a church altar featuring intricate wooden carvings, religious icons, and a large decorative cross mounted above a richly painted backdrop.
A row of white crosses marking graves in a cemetery, set against a stone wall.

We arrived in Kragujavac the next morning, a busy and crowded town, not well suited to a UniMog. We stopped at a Lidl needing to do some food shopping but also hoping to leave BigMog in their car park for the day. But we found there was a strict 90 minute limit with barriers and tickets – most unlike Serbia.

The next car park we tried was small and full and we had to reverse back out of the road. With our stress levels rising, we tried another one by a lake but that was also full so in desperation we parked on the grass verge only to be hailed by two locals telling us we would be fined if we stayed there – another first in Serbia.

However these same gentleman then moved their cars around to make room for us in the car park and saved the day – the kindness of strangers.

One of the main reasons to come to this town was to visit its enormous cemetery that was reputed to be full of tombstones carved in the shape of Zastava cars – the main Zastava factory having been located here for many years.

But we were disappointed, after an hour of looking in every nook and cranny we found not one single car.

To cheer ourselves up we walked to a rare thing indeed in Serbia – an Indian restaurant. There was no-one else in and the waiter looked quite surprised to see us, but the food was amazing.

From there we walked 2km to the 20Cola Pop Culture museum, found that it didn’t open until 5pm, walked 2km back to the truck to wait for 1.5 hours then walked 2km back to the museum.

James was distinctly not sure the walk or the wait would be worth it but our persistence paid off, it was wonderful

Display featuring a mannequin in a red and black outfit, standing next to a futuristic car and various items from the 'Back to the Future' franchise, with a bookshelf filled with comic books and records in the background.

The owner was a very enthusiastic young man who had a love of everything related to the 1980s

A vintage-style room corner featuring a collection of music CDs and cassettes on shelves, a retro audio system, a large TV set, and several nostalgic items, including a figurine of E.T. and plush toys. The room has a warm, inviting atmosphere with two patterned chairs and a variety of decorative posters on the walls.

From Barbie and My Little Pony

A display case filled with various colourful toy ponies, showcasing different characters from the My Little Pony franchise, arranged in multiple rows.

To Back to the Future, ET and Chopper Bikes

Display of vintage and retro bicycles in various colours, arranged against a wooden wall with additional bike parts and accessories hanging above.

As well as a whole host of American, Chinese, Japanese and home-grown dolls, games and toys.

But the highlight of the visit was seeing a ZX Spectrum which propelled me right back to my youth

Close-up of a ZX Spectrum keyboard, showcasing a range of colourful keys and labels, including function keys and control buttons, with visible wear on some edges.

And playing on some very old skool video games

A person in a beanie playing an arcade game titled 'Police Trainer' in a gaming arcade, with a festive gremlin figure dressed as Santa in the background.

We moved the truck to a larger car park on the outskirts of town for the night and slept soundly with old skool smiles on our faces.

The next day we headed away from the hustle and bustle of the city to the small town of Topola – right in the heart of the wine region.

It is also home to one of Serbia’s most important buildings – the Holy Martyr George mausoleum, otherwise known as Oplenac. This is where the tombs of the old ruling family are held – the royal house of Karađorđević.

But first we had to organise wine.

We started at the Royal Winery – still owned by the royal family. When we arrived the helpful lady on reception said we could do tastings whenever we wanted and it was free, so we arranged to go back at 2pm.

Our next stop was the Aleksandrovic winery which was very posh. The staff offered us a 6 course meal with 8 wines along with permission to stay in their car park overnight. It all sounded amazing but the price was higher than we would normally consider. In the end we decided to splash out as it was James’ birthday soon and we had spent practically nothing so far in Serbia.

They could only squeeze us in at 2pm which left little time to see Oplenac and get back to the Royal Winery, but we were up for the challenge.

We dashed to Oplenac and were immediately struck by its grandeur. Built by King Peter I in 1912, it is a huge and magnificent thing

A grand white stone church with three domes and a large entrance, surrounded by trees and a cloudy sky.
A large, ornate church building with a multi-domed roof, featuring decorative stonework and large windows, set against a blue sky with clouds.

A small museum housed all sorts of personal items belonging to the royal family as well as portraits of the great kings and queens

Two framed portraits of military figures displayed on a wall, one in a grey uniform with glasses, the other in a red uniform adorned with medals.
A portrait of a man in a military uniform with medals and decorations, framed in gold, displayed on the left. Beside it, a bronze bust of a man wearing a similar uniform, shown on a maroon cloth.
Bronze bust of a man with a prominent nose and serious expression, featuring a braided detail at the neck and an insignia on the chest, displayed on a wooden surface.
A portrait of a man in military uniform, standing beside an ornate table in a room with golden curtains and green armchairs, framed by a rope barrier and potted plants.

Along with an incredible, historic document – the Austro-Hungarian declaration of war on Serbia in 1914, the start of the First World War

A historical document displayed on a red cushion, featuring the Austro-Hungarian declaration of war on Serbia from 1914. The document includes handwritten text and stamps, accompanied by a labelled explanation in both Serbian and English.

I stared at it for a long time thinking just how monumental this small piece of paper was to world history.

The mausoleum itself was monumental

Interior view of a historic church featuring ornate frescoes on the walls and ceiling, tall columns, and a decorative chandelier.

The walls and ceilings were covered in mosaics made from 40 million individual piece of glass

Interior view of a religious building featuring ornate frescoes on the walls, depicting various saints and biblical scenes, with a person standing beside a floral tribute at the base.

It was breathtaking.

Underneath were the equally ornate crypts

A beautifully adorned corridor featuring intricate mosaics and decorative patterns on the walls and ceiling, illuminated by a red chandelier.
Decorative archway interior featuring intricate blue and red patterned ceilings, elegant marble floors, and soft lighting.
Interior view of a beautifully adorned corridor with mosaic ceilings and intricate patterns, featuring arches and ornate decoration.

Along with 39 royal tombs

Interior view of a crypt featuring three stone slabs with inscriptions, surrounded by ornate marble walls and decorative mosaics.

Including King Peter I himself

A marble tombstone inscribed with 'Пётр I. 1844-1921' and a golden cross symbol.

Suitably impressed, we left Oplenac and drove back to the Royal Winery.

We were taken down into the cellars to see the old grape press

A vintage wine press made of wood and metal, surrounded by various historical agricultural tools and machinery in a museum setting.

And the barrels

Three large, intricately designed wooden barrels with red and black stripes, featuring embossed patterns and metal spigots.
Rows of wooden barrels stacked in a dimly lit cellar, each labelled with a tag, resting on a wooden pallet.

Including Barrel 26 where the old king used to hide as a child and where many of their best wines were hidden when the communists confiscated all the royal assets

A wine cellar featuring large wooden barrels stacked along the walls, with some showing numbers, and a dimly lit interior.

These bottles are decades old

A dusty storage room featuring metal shelves filled with cylindrical objects, stacked neatly and showing signs of age and neglect.

They don’t sell them, they just drink them with friends!

We then tried four small glasses of their wines and bought three of them

Three bottles of wine on a countertop with a light grey background. The left bottle has a gold cap, the middle bottle has a red cap, and the right bottle has a green cap. Each bottle features a label with different designs and text in various colours.

Before heading for our dinner date at Aleksandrovic where we tucked BigMog up in a corner of the car park

A red Mercedes truck with a white camper unit parked next to a brick building under a partly cloudy sky.

We started with another cellar tour, this one on a completely different scale

A cellar with large wooden barrels lined up along the walls, with brick pillars and a tiled floor, illuminated by overhead lights.
A dimly lit corridor lined with wooden wine barrels, featuring dark wooden beams and a rustic aesthetic.
A neatly arranged wine cellar featuring dark wooden shelves filled with various bottles of wine, some with yellow and black labels. There is a brick wall on the left, and the overall atmosphere is warm and inviting.
Two wooden racks displaying bottles of sparkling wine, with one rack holding amber bottles and the other black bottles, set against a rustic brick wall.

With a statue of Bacchus, the God of wine

A white stone sculpture of a seated figure with a beard, holding a cup and adorned with grapevines, placed against a brick wall.

And many of their premium bottles beautifully displayed

Three wooden wine boxes displaying a selection of Aleksandrović wines, each box containing multiple wine bottles, set against a vineyard backdrop.
A wooden wine box containing three bottles of wine with labels, resting on a dark wooden surface. Other wine boxes are partially visible in the background.

These ones are being aged and are turned every two months

A decorative light fixture featuring a glass bottle illuminated by a bulb, mounted on a wooden frame with two additional bottles hanging below.

We headed for the restaurant to start our tastings, it was beautiful

A beautifully set dining room with wooden tables and wicker chairs, adorned with glassware and cutlery. There are decorative plants and a stone relief on the wall, with large windows offering a view of a scenic landscape.

With a lovely view over the vineyards

A man sitting at a table with wine glasses, gazing out of a large window in a restaurant with a scenic view of hills.
Panoramic view of a vineyard with rows of grapevines, rolling hills, and a distant village under a clear blue sky.

And the food was fabulous. I tried to take some photos of each course but sadly the wine was also very good and had some strange effect on my ability to focus!

We bought another four bottles of wine and went back to the truck happy but feeling a little worse for wear. I’m beginning to think I may be allergic to something in wine…

A selection of wine bottles arranged on a dark countertop, featuring various labels and colours, including red, white, and sparkling wines.

After going to bed at 8pm and having a restless night, we woke up feeling surprisingly good. We were heading for a mountain but had a few stops to make on the way.

Our first were the ruins of Dvorine, a 14th-century medieval church and necropolis

Archaeological site with large stones and orange tarps in a wooded area, featuring a background of bare trees and hills under a blue sky.
An archaeological site featuring large, weathered stones arranged on the ground, with some partially covered by orange tarps, surrounded by sparse vegetation and trees in the background.
Archaeological site with excavated ruins covered by orange tarps, surrounded by bare trees and a blue shelter in the background.

But we were disappointed to find that it was still just a dig site with not much to see.

So we carried on to the Kosmaj memorial. It was a lovely, warm day so we parked at the foot of the stairs and walked up

A large concrete monument resembling a star, surrounded by bare trees and a clear blue sky, with stone stairs leading up to it.
A tall concrete monument with five elongated, angular structures reaching upwards against a clear blue sky, surrounded by trees and greenery.

Then carried on to a monument to the soldiers who died in WWI defending Belgrade

A scenic view from a hilltop featuring a white cross monument and a flagpole with two flags. A dog is resting by the monument, with a landscape of fields and hills visible in the background under a clear blue sky.

As usual, we had a local guide who walked us all the way there, waited patiently whilst we admired the view, and walked us back again!

A view from a hillside showing bare trees in the foreground and a valley with scattered houses and farms in the background under a clear blue sky.
A brown and white spaniel dog lying on the ground near a tree, enjoying a sunny day.

The walk back had been uphill all the way so we sat outside having lunch then decided to rest for the afternoon and press on to the mountain tomorrow.

The mountain we were heading towards was Mount Avala – just 511m high but with lovely views over the capital city, Belgrade.

We had been studiously avoiding Belgrade for weeks, completely re-writing our original itinerary to keep away from it. But we had run out of excuses and it was beginning to loom large on our horizon.

Avala itself still feels very much in the countryside and it was lovely – this is the place where people from Belgrade go to get some fresh air and peace

A scenic pathway lined with hedges and trees, leading towards a clear blue sky.

We walked to the first square where we found an usual ceremony going on

A group of people engaged in a traditional dance around a stone plaza, flanked by two statues on pedestals. The scene features trees in the background and a clear blue sky.

A little perturbed, we left them to it and carried on up to the impressive Monument to the Unknown Hero – built in 1938 to honour all Serbian soldiers who fought in WWI

View of a stone staircase leading up to a temple-like structure, surrounded by tall trees and trimmed hedges under clear blue skies.
A black stone monument with two statues flanking an entrance, set on a stepped base, against a clear blue sky.
Two large, stylised stone statues of women in traditional attire, each wearing oversized hats, standing against a dark stone wall with trees in the background.

The sun was out, the air was fresh, it was lovely

A person standing on steps in front of a large stone monument, flanked by two statues, under a clear blue sky.

We found another monument nearby, this time to a group of Russian war veterans whose plane crashed into the mountain and killed them all

A memorial structure located on a hillside, surrounded by bare trees and a clear blue sky, with a pathway leading to it.

We wandered around the mountain for the rest of the morning then headed closer into the city, stopping for lunch at Jasinski Park

A modern metal sculpture resembling a bird, perched atop a tall pedestal, set against a clear blue sky with trees in the background. Steps lead up to the sculpture, with a small wreath at the base.

There wasn’t much to see there so, with a distinct feeling of trepidation, we went closer still.

As we drove towards the looming presence of the large, sprawling capital city, I was surprised to find that we were still surrounded by green space. In fact, the whole area seemed quite nice and not particularly busy.

There is a Vespa Museum on the outskirts of the city which we really wanted to see. We parked up near the Rakovica monastery which was about as close as BigMog was going to get to the narrow, hillside streets where the museum was located.

It was a long, steep uphill walk but we were getting used to that by now. I had spoken to the owner of the museum on the telephone earlier in the day and when we arrived he greeted us warmly with a beaming smile.

We have rarely met anyone so enthusiastic about their subject as Vladan was about his scooters. His private collection includes 40 restored Vespas in completely original and running condition, from a 1949 model right the way through to the last model ever made

A framed poster displaying various models of Vespa scooters in multiple colours, arranged in a grid format.

He started the visit by showing us a film chronicling his life and works and then showed us around each scooter

A display of classic Vespa scooters in various shades of green, positioned in an indoor exhibition space. The background features framed photographs and a vintage car, with ambient lighting highlighting the vehicles.
A display of vintage scooters in a museum setting, featuring a variety of brightly coloured Vespas and other models, with photographs and artworks on the walls.
A display of vintage scooters and unique vehicles, including a wooden scooter with distinctive features and several classic models in a dark-toned interior.
A display of vintage silver scooters lined up in a darkened space, featuring decorative elements and a prominent 'The Beatles' theme.
A vintage car with a rusty exterior on display, featuring an open engine compartment, set against a dark background with artwork depicting scooters.

Including this one which belonged to Novak Djokovic who gifted it to the museum

A customised vintage scooter displayed on artificial grass, featuring designs in red, white, and blue, along with a drawing of a muscular figure. Two tennis balls are placed nearby.

We chatted to him and his friend for ages and even learnt how to better pronounce Serbian words – including the fact that a ‘j’ is always pronounced as a ‘y’ which certainly helps with some of the place names.

The walk back down was much easier. We popped into the monastery where we had parked

Facade of a historic building featuring red and white striped patterns and large arched windows, set against a clear blue sky.
A serene park scene featuring a tall tree, benches, and pathways, with people walking and sitting in a green space surrounded by buildings and a clear blue sky.
A small white church with two domed towers and gold crosses, set against a clear blue sky. The church is surrounded by greenery and features decorative elements on its façade. In the background, there are buildings with red and white stripes and trees.

Then decided to go back to Jasinski Park for the night.

When we arrived there were two puppies sitting huddled together in the car park looking terrified. There were a few locals around them, most trying to feed them

A woman kneeling on the ground, feeding two young puppies with dry dog food on a paved surface.

I chatted to this lady who said that someone had abandoned them in the park and it was a great shame – she said it happens all too often in Serbia.

Everyone seemed very upset about them and a few even tried to persuade us to take them in.

The next morning was James’ birthday and he had a lovely start to the day – a local man came over to say hello and told us that the puppies had been adopted by someone who lived nearby.

We had been putting the ‘big city’ off for long enough, we couldn’t hang about on the outskirts any longer. So we took a deep breath and dived in.

I have rarely researched a city that has so much to see and do as Belgrade. Part of the reason why I felt so daunted by it was because it seemed so big and so busy. We could spend weeks there and still not see everything.

I had split it up into sections and tried to find park-up places in each section from where we could get buses to the places we wanted to go.

We had chosen a football stadium as our base for the southern part. When we arrived there was plenty of space and it was surprisingly quiet for a city centre stadium. It seemed we had made a good choice.

It was a short walk to our first site – the Museum of Yugoslavia and Tito’s Mausoleum

A circular fountain in a park setting, with a modern building in the background and clear blue skies.
A park view featuring bare trees and a rectangular plaza with a central fountain, surrounded by green grass and pathways, with buildings in the background under a clear blue sky.

The mausoleum housed Tito’s tomb in what is known as The House of Flowers

Gravestone of Josip Broz Tito, featuring his name and years of birth and death, 1892 - 1980, engraved in gold letters on a marble slab.
A modern glasshouse interior featuring two people walking along a path surrounded by various tropical plants and flowers under a bright blue sky.

As well as a fascinating exhibition about his death and funeral

A bronze bust of a man displayed on a wooden pedestal, set against a white wall with a tiled floor.
A report detailing the health condition of Josip Broz Tito, stating that it has been critical since mid-February, with a brief improvement noted. The document references the serious nature of his medical treatment and the ongoing medical procedures being followed.
A collage of black and white historical photographs exhibited on a dark wall, depicting crowds, public gatherings, and significant events, with a large image of a dense crowd at the top.
Text from a historical document discussing a funeral procession for Josip Broz Tito, highlighting the attendance of thousands and the speeches by notable political figures.

Leaders from across the world attended

A collage of black and white photographs displayed on a wall, depicting various dignitaries and officials at a memorial site with floral tributes.

Including the British Prime Minister

A historical black and white image depicting a solemn ceremony, featuring a woman in a dark coat and hat standing before a military officer in uniform, with several individuals observing and taking photographs in the background.

It can be hard in Serbia to unpick reality from propaganda and we are still unsure whether Tito was a ruthless, oppressive dictator or a broadly decent leader who made Yugoslavia strong and successful but made a few mistakes.

I have my suspicions but he appeared to be genuinely mourned by the population and seems to have been supported and admired by politicians across the globe

A bronze statue of a man in military attire with a cloak, standing on a granite base in a park setting, surrounded by trees and greenery.

The museum housed an eclectic array of personal items from Tito’s household, the most fascinating of which were the many gifts that had been given to him by other countries

A sculpture display featuring a central bust and several fragmented heads arranged on a table, with a historical black and white photograph of a crowd raising their arms in the background.
Bronze busts of Vladimir Lenin and Karl Marx displayed side by side in a gallery, highlighting their historical significance.

This one made me smile – how many people have a piece of the moon, and how many countries had their flags taken there?

Display case containing a flag of the Socialist Federal Republic of Yugoslavia, presented by President Richard Nixon, with an inscription detailing its journey to the Moon and back by Apollo 11.

After an absorbing visit getting to grips with the political history of the country, we went for a birthday lunch at a very interesting restaurant

A cosy living room featuring a striped sofa and a floral armchair, with a white wooden table adorned with a colourful tablecloth and a small flower vase. The walls are painted green with decorative frames and curtains in a gold tone.
A cosy living room with a bright green wall, featuring a marble fireplace adorned with candelabras. Vintage paintings in ornate frames decorate the wall, along with a golden-framed artwork above the fireplace. A plush, tufted beige sofa and an armchair complete the inviting atmosphere.
A beautifully decorated dining room featuring floral wallpaper, ornate furniture, and an eclectic mix of artwork on the walls. There are wooden tables with floral tablecloths and colourful chairs. A piano and a lamp add to the charm of the space.

Whether the decor was quite to James’ tastes is another matter but the food was good!

From there we went to another museum, this time possibly not quite so relevant to our current country

Exterior view of the African Art Museum, featuring a modern architectural design with a curved roof and large windows. Two people stand outside the entrance amidst greenery under a clear blue sky.

The Museum of African Art – wherever we are in the world you can guarantee we’ll find something African to visit

An intricately decorated wooden canoe displayed in an exhibition space, with a large, artistic representation of the African continent made from small wooden blocks in the background.
A display of various traditional masks mounted on blue poles, featuring intricate designs and carvings, set against a green background.
Two wooden sculptures depicting abstract human figures, displayed on a green pedestal in a museum setting.
Two wooden sculptures on display in an exhibition, surrounded by colourful panels featuring black and white photographs of people.

We were in the posh bit of Belgrade where the wealthy build extravagant houses

A large, ornate white building with multiple domes and architectural details, set against a clear blue sky. In the foreground, there are several bare trees and sculptures resembling topiary.

And many embassies hide behind high walls

View of a large, white house with a red tiled roof, surrounded by trees and clear blue sky.

But this was the house we wanted to buy

An abandoned house partially obscured by overgrown vegetation, featuring a distinctive architectural style with peeling paint and boarded windows, set against a clear blue sky.

What a fabulous project that would be!

So far, the dread we had been feeling about coming to another large city – especially one supposedly so brutal – had not matched with what we had found at all.

In fact, we were actually enjoying Belgrade and finding it rather calm and green.

Surely, as we delved deeper into the city this would all change. We had images of it as an ugly, sprawling, communist-era metropolis and it had sent fear into our hearts. As we made our way back to the truck we had the feeling that we had seen the best of the city and that stress, noise and frustration would dominate the next week of our lives.

But Serbia had yet more surprises in store for us….

Jen Price

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One response to “Warmth, Wine and the Road to Belgrade”

  1. We saw many homes partially built in Bulgaria. Some used the upper floors for hanging laundry to dry. Economics certainly were involved, but we also considered that multigenerations lived together and it was “planning for the future”.

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